Farming In The Sky – Or turning our skyscrappers into farms

SkyScrapers are energy dogs from a lot of perspectives most notably the energy needed to hoist people into the sky…so this concept probably won’t work. But from a local food perspective and from a built environment perspective It has some attraction.

On a personal note, I normally have little conscience about posting stuff here from other sources but this is from a blog, the person clearly put a lot of work into it and the pictures are really beautiful. So I am going to post a little of it here…for the rest goto:

http://www.land-force.com/blog/index.php/2009/07/17/vertical-farms/

20 Vertical Farming Pics, Designs & Concepts

One couldn’t say that the concept of vertical farming isn’t controversial, but they could say that it has serious merits that need to be considered on both sides of the issues.

 

credit

What is a vertical farm?  The basic premise, as you see in this image, is to be able to grow food in urban areas by creating tall buildings where, instead of each floor having offices, each floor is in essence its own super greenhouse, where different crops can be grown to feed people within its own community.  The idea is to not only be able to feed the community, but to protect the land that’s being damaged by over-farming and making sure that there will still be enough food for an ever growing population.

credit

Of course, not all designs would be the same, but this model of a design for the city of Seattle helps us to see how it would work.  It’s integrated into a city plan so that it fits in, and has areas where people can go inside to not only tend to the plants, but could actually buy their produce at the same time.

 

 

 

 


credit

Thinking of vertical farm in terms of super stores fits a model like this one, where the ground floor has everything a traditional supermarket would have,

 

 

 

 


credit

While upper levels would contain areas for growing produce.  This particular example tries to highlight how power might be created for all the energy needed to grow crops in urban areas, as the designs for vertical farming wouldn’t be able to provide natural light for all of the crops, so they’d need enhancement from artificial lighting.  It’s one of the major criticisms of trying to have vertical farms.

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Sealing A Continuous Ridge Vent – The method I used was not great

But it was the best I could come up with off the top of my head. Now that I think about it I probably should have used hardening spray foam from a can. Commonly referred to by the trade name Stuff.

http://building.dow.com/global/greatstuffpro.htm

As you can see from this question:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Roofing-1598/Icynene-Insulation-Sealing-Ridge.htm

Roofing – Icynene Insulation and Sealing Ridge Vents


Expert: Dan Merrill – 7/26/2007Question
I am having a home built and plan to have icynene foam insulation sprayed into the attic (exterior walls and the attic ceiling)as well as exterior walls.   My understanding is that with foam insulation, ridge vents are not needed and in fact defeat the purpose.   The house is now framed and the architectural shingles are being installed this week.   I noticed that the opening for the ridge vent has not been physically closed.    The builder uses a truss design rather than a stick built roof.    The tar paper and shingles are just being laid over the open ridge.Is this a problem?   It seems to me that there should be a more solid barrier at the ridge…like wood, rather than just foam, tar paper, then shingles.Any thoughts?   ThanksAnswer
It should not pose a problem.
The usage of conditioned attic space as you are building is fairly new to the building codes and not in general use.
It is likely that most roofing installers have never seen the specifications before, so they just did as they always do.
The foam will be sprayed under the whole roof deck, so it will act as a vapor barrier. The opening cut for a ridge vent should have no affect.

Dan

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However what I did  was cut a rectangular piece of black 4 mill. plastic:

http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/27-112-polyethylene-film/4-mil-plastic-black-poly-film-637465.aspx

Big enough to cover the exposed vent space between the rafters and allow some “drape” over all of the exposed surfaces, approximately 2 ft. by anywhere from 20 inches to 30 inches. I made a continuous bead of 30 year silicon caulk in a square configuration much smaller than the piece of plastic:

http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_3d_index.asp?page_id=35783013

http://www.onlinetips.org/caulk-types

I pushed this up to the peak of the roof, making sure to make complete contact between all of the wood surfaces and the caulk. I then smoothed the plastic out and popped in  5 or 6 staples with my PowerShot staple gun.

http://www.shopping.com/xPO-Black-Decker-Black-Decker-5700-Powershot-Forward-Action-Stapler

Then I put the insulation back up. I bought a cool new product for cheap; plastic wrapped r-17 insulation for 16 bucks. Kinda like insulation in a tube.

http://www.askthebuilder.com/B54_Fiberglass_-_Newest_Improvements.shtml

And I dragged it across the artificial ceiling studs.

:}

A reader could rightfully ask, why didn’t you make the roofing company come and fix it?

The answer is 2 fold. One, I ordered the roof and I should have been aware that it came with a continuous ridge vent. It is not up to the roofer to go into the attic to determine if you ordered the right roof before he or she installs it.

Second I always fight the battles I want to fight. I have expertise in this area and though I wish I would have thought of the foam solution earlier, it did not take much longer to fix the problem the way I fixed it. Another homeowner might have thought that this was a fight to take to the roofing company.

It turned out when we finally got around to stripping out the paneling to remodel the attic that they had done the same thing to the dormer…man was it hot up there!

:}

There Is Something In The Attic And It’s Alive II – Roof Leaks are so much fun

I ended up where I started off. I started with a badly leaking roof in the big shed. I moved on to a leaky basement. Finally I paid 11,000 $$$ for a leaky roof.

It’s Jam Band Friday – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vo_0UXRY_rY

Now a traditional home owner would have been calling their lawyer and loading their shotguns, Cathy is an electrician and I am a carpenter so on the second leak we called Dean our roof guy and expressed our displeasure. In the mean time I had been trying to figure out what was going on. I had to take out a bunch of wet insulation. The more I tracked the water up the roof, the more it veered toward the gable vent that I had assumed was sealed and insulated.

http://www.customcopperdesigns.com/Product_Catgs/Gables/index.html

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yGCHPmfqT0&feature=related

Our 2 eve vents were the  triangular ones listed at the bottom of the page. I got this horrible feeling in my gut. Slowly the horror grew. I had an energy monster living in my attic! Me an energy expert had the equivalent of a 4 x 4 ft. hole in my wall in my attic. I knew I had to kill it but the previous owners of the house (who should be shot) had presented me with serious problems. I tried to take the ceiling panel down to get a quick look and discovered that the panels were all beveled. That is the ceiling panel was trapped by the sloping panel which was trapped by the knee wall panel which was trapped by the carpet tack strips from the old carpet…%$&#@*! Is what I said over and over again..

http://mtlcontracting.com/finished_attics.htm

www.hunnewellhomes.com/remodeling.asp

http://s93883215.onlinehome.us/adamjaneiro/2007_09_01_archive.html

:}

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORAvMk-iXec

YOU know exactly what I mean. Everyone has a friend that grew up in the attic. So by the time I basically got 2 whole 4 ft wall and side panels off I was a mixture of pissed, curious and freaked. But it got worse. I made the mistake of pulling the roof panel down with the slope pointing towards me and when I got about half the panel down I was hit in the face with dirt and dust like I had never seen. I let go of the panel and dashed downstairs to wash my face. Then I went out on the front porch, shook my clothes off and brushed my hair out. Now I was nearly out of my mind. I dashed back upstairs to see what in the world had just happened to me. There on the floor were thousands of hornets nests! I looked up at the open unscreened gable vent in disbelief. I mean open to the outside world and only stoppered by an 1/8th inch piece of cheap 1950’s wood paneling. 1953 to be exact. What idiots.

:}

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBOGqaiVLUs&feature=related

I got up in the ceiling and looked back the other way. What I saw was a long tunnel formed by the ceiling panels and the roof and ANOTHER unscreened totally open vent at the other end. Then I looked up at a light in the sky – open, though screened continuous ridge vent. I started throwing things around the room, stomped downstairs and called Cathy at work. I screamed for awhile until she got me calmed down. She said, can you fix it? I said yah but I shouldn’t have to. She said, yah right and hung up the phone. The woman has no sense of humor. So then I pulled down the other panel. I scooped up three trash cans full of bees nests.

http://www.virginmedia.com/digital/science/pictures/insect-photography.php?ssid=8

www.dorlingkindersley-uk.co.uk/nf/ClipArt/Ima..

http://gardenplotter.com/rospo/blog/2007/03/old-attics.html

At the west end of the house I even found 2 dinner plate sized wasp nests even though my biologist father claims that wasps and hornets will not cohabitate.

http://pestcontrolcanada.com/INSECTS/wasp_and_hornet_control.htm

http://www.aardvark-ie.com/wasps.htm

Then I sealed the vents with black plastic, caulk and staples. I stuffed the space with R-17 insulation and put the wood panels back in place. I have no idea how to seal up a ridge vent that should not be.

Here is how the pro’s do it:

http://www.onthehouse.com/wp/20030929

Since gable vents usually are architectural elements, it generally is best to seal them from the interior with a piece of plywood, thus preserving the architectural integrity of the home and eliminating the need to make a siding patch.

:}

More on getting rid of the ridge vent Monday.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muyqMrsuLXw&feature=related

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The Horror Of Being Trapped In The Basement – It came from below

When I, Cathy and others started CES, my feeling  was that since I was going to be working from home I should spend part of that day improving the house. I figured after the rate hike fight in 2007 that I wanted no part of but got sucked into anyway, that it would take 2 years, maybe 3 to get CES up and running. So Cathy and I sat down and talked about what we wanted to do with the house. She wanted:

a Cistern

a Solar Space on the South side of the house

a solar water heater

I wanted:

a refurbished attic

to  tear out the ceiling in the bedroom

We both agreed that the basement was the place to start. We were getting a little water in the basement when it rained really hard. We knew that we needed to do something about that. We have a nice sump hole and a sump pump, but our thoughts were that maybe we just needed a bigger sump pump. There also was a question of electricity reliability. In three years we had at least 2 long outages…one lasting 8 days. Of course it usually rained real hard during those periods so we would end up draining our sump hole by hand. (Yes that is right Doug and Cathy with five gallon buckets. We dumped them in the downstairs toilet) We both agreed that the color had to change first. That was the hardest task actually because the entire floor was a hideous green.

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/1897/oldaomiprototypeyq7.jpg

So I moved all of the furniture down to one end of the basement and painted the basement steps a nice light blue/gray. Then I painted half of the main floor the same nice blue gray. I moved all of the furniture to the other end of room and painted the rest of the floor a nice blue gray. When I was done I said, What color do you want to paint the plant room honey and she said, LipStick Red. I was aghast. She said that is the color that plants love.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_z7PFSXqH2Vo/SJm6zvOXC7I/AAAAAAAAELg/CfxvWsJDUpw/s320/Red+Lipstick.JPG

Yup that Lipstick Red. The one that women have been using to seduce men (not that men need much seducing) since the time of the Pharohs and before. I was incredulous. So I went to the Menards

http://www.menards.com/

walked up to the paint counter and said I want to paint my plant room. The guy behind the counter said, oh you want a gallon or two of Lipstick Red. I just about died. I said you better make it 2. So I painted that room red. When it started raining the first day we were kinda worried. We had had the drainage system that runs from our back porch to the street blownout with high pressure water some months earlier, but the next rain had brought just a trickle of water.

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=menards&sourceid=navclient-ff&rlz=1B3RNFA_enUS268US269&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wl

Which you can kinda see in the picture above. We were getting huge puddles on our back porch and were fairly certain that the water in the basement was from the lack o’ drainage in that area. By the 4th day of rain the sump pump was running night and day.

http://www.freefoto.com/preview/35-18-35?ffid=35-18-35

by the 8th day of rain Iowa looked like this:

http://www.saveborrowspend.co.uk/articles/news/1655-flood-cover-should-be-considered

We had serious water running through the kitchen (Cathy’s craft area) in the basement, our sump pump died and we lost power. This solved all of our problems in short order. We immediately bought half  again as large a sump pump and a generator. Doug dug up the drainage system, found the broken tile and repaired it. The water damaged the flooring in the kitchen so we tore it out and installed nice blue “foamy” rubber flooring that Cathy had always wanted. And we removed the old nasty PHILGAS stove so she would have more craft space. There is a rainbow at the end of every storm.

:}

Fed Credits For Solar Water Heaters – Once it is paid for it is free for life

Or at least for the life of the equipment. (it’s jam band friday – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhNrqc6yvTU)

I mean this is the ultimate irony in the utility world. Heating water with anything other than the sun which is free is a crime. I mean think about it. Why? First the Tax Credit

Not there silly here:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits#s11

Solar Energy Systems Solar Water Heating At least half of the energy generated by the “qualifying property” must come from the sun. Homeowners may only claim spending on the solar water heating system property, not the entire water heating system of the household.The credit is not available for expenses for swimming pools or hot tubs.The water must be used in the dwelling.The system must be certified by the Solar Rating and Certification Corporation (SRCC). 30% of cost All ENERGY STAR solar water heaters qualify for the tax credit.Use IRS Form 5695 PDF Exit ENERGY STARMust be placed in service before December 31, 2016.

:}

( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LANwIgpha7k )

No pools or hot tubs dam nit…we can’t have everything being free. So these things come in all shapes and sizes:

http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=12850

Solar Water Heaters

Solar water heaters—also called solar domestic hot water systems—can be a cost-effective way to generate hot water for your home. They can be used in any climate, and the fuel they use—sunshine—is free.

How They Work

Solar water heating systems include storage tanks and solar collectors. There are two types of solar water heating systems: active, which have circulating pumps and controls, and passive, which don’t.

Most solar water heaters require a well-insulated storage tank. Solar storage tanks have an additional outlet and inlet connected to and from the collector. In two-tank systems, the solar water heater preheats water before it enters the conventional water heater. In one-tank systems, the back-up heater is combined with the solar storage in one tank.

Three types of solar collectors are used for residential applications:

  • Flat-plate collector

    Glazed flat-plate collectors are insulated, weatherproofed boxes that contain a dark absorber plate under one or more glass or plastic (polymer) covers. Unglazed flat-plate collectors—typically used for solar pool heating—have a dark absorber plate, made of metal or polymer, without a cover or enclosure.

  • Integral collector-storage systems

    Also known as ICS or batch systems, they feature one or more black tanks or tubes in an insulated, glazed box. Cold water first passes through the solar collector, which preheats the water. The water then continues on to the conventional backup water heater, providing a reliable source of hot water. They should be installed only in mild-freeze climates because the outdoor pipes could freeze in severe, cold weather.

  • Evacuated-tube solar collectors

    They feature parallel rows of transparent glass tubes. Each tube contains a glass outer tube and metal absorber tube attached to a fin. The fin’s coating absorbs solar energy but inhibits radiative heat loss. These collectors are used more frequently for U.S. commercial applications.

There are two types of active solar water heating systems:

  • Direct circulation systems

    Pumps circulate household water through the collectors and into the home. They work well in climates where it rarely freezes.

  • Indirect circulation systems

    Pumps circulate a non-freezing, heat-transfer fluid through the collectors and a heat exchanger. This heats the water that then flows into the home. They are popular in climates prone to freezing temperatures.

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( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLlOTPBBq9k  )

Still you must decide:

http://www.solardirect.com/swh/swh.htm

Solar Water Heating Systems

 

  All solar water heaters work in every climate, but different types of heaters work best in different areas, see below:
Passive Solar Water Heater Active Solar Water Heater Trendsetter Solar Water Heater
Warm Climate
ProgressivTube
• Solar Hot Water Passive
system
• Easy to install and
maintain; no moving
parts
• Storage tank must be
installed above or close
to collector
• Uses no electricity; will
function during
blackouts
• Price range:
$1,700.00 – $2,600.00
Moderate Climate
Helio-Pak
• Active Solar Hot Water,
flat plate type
• Pumps, valves &
controllers assist in the
prevention of freezing
• Tanks do not need to
be installed above or
close to collectors
• Uses electricity; will not
function during
blackouts
• Price range:
$2,200.00 – $5,200.00
Cold Climate
TrendSetter
• Solar Hot Water Active,
evacuated tube
• Heavy-duty residential
and commercial
• Additional applications:
Water heating, Radiant
floor heating, Space
Heat
• Price range:
$6,000.00 – $17,000.00

Need help or want a Fully Installed System?

We have over 35,000 satisfied customers served since 1986!
Solar Direct has over 25 years of experience in commercial and
residential solar hot water product installation. Services are available
throughout the U.S. with our national installer network.

Contact Us for installation and product information, our team of Product Solution Specialists are standing by to take your calls.

Solar Water Heater installationSolar Water Heating technologies are a simple, reliable, and cost-effective harnessing the sun’s energy to provide for the solar thermal energy needs of homes and businesses. And now the new Energy Policy Act of 2005 allows you receive a federal tax credit worth 30% of the system cost! This is the best time to reap the numerous benefits of solar power!

  • Financial solar rebates available
  • Easy Do-It-Yourself Kits
  • Professional Solar Installations
  • Low Investment – High Return
  • Savings pay for system in 3-5 years

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So what are you waiting for?

( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeJeL8Ued3s&feature=related  )

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Feds Tax Credits For Solar Panels – One for every roof in America

If we had been this aggressive for the last 30 years. We would have a green economy and we would be skipping all of the problems we have right now. The world would have followed suit and our species would not be in the danger it is now. Grousing doesn’t help though..First the Tax Credits

Not there silly over here

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits#s4

Solar Energy Systems

Photovoltaic Systems Photovoltaic systems must provide electricity for the residence, and must meet applicable fire and electrical code requirement. 30% of cost Use IRS Form 5695 PDF Exit ENERGY STARMust be placed in service before December 31, 2016.

:}

You’ll never guess who is doing it.

http://www.bp.com/genericcountryjump.do?categoryId=9070&contentId=7038143

Partner with BP Solar

Tools

How to buy

 

Request more information

 

Rebates and incentives

 

Solar savings estimator

 

Is solar right for me?

 

 

 

 

Visit us at the PV America conference, booth 1303

June 8-10 in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

 

Teichert home

Home solutions

Industry leading solar solutions

Solar panels in a field

Business solutions

Save money, improve your brand

Builder installing panels

Builder solutions

 

Press releases

BP Solar to supply PV power systems for major retailer in California
22 April 2009

BP Solar lowers cost in drive toward grid-competitive electricity prices
31 March 2009

BP Solar to develop 37MW in projects for Long Island Power Authority
11 March 2009

Colorado Governor Bill Ritter dedicates new solar power system at CSU-Pueblo
13 January 2009

BP Solar announces completion of solar power pilot project
18 December 2008

 

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Now they are real proud of it. What does the future hold?

 

http://www.siliconsolar.com/flexible-solar-panels.html

 

 

Flexible Solar Panels – Consumer Ready Modules – OEM

Solar Store

Silicon SolarSolar PanelsFlexible Solar Panels

Flexible Solar Panels: The lightest thin film flexible solar panels on today’s market are available from Silicon Solar.

Solar technology has reached its most convenient, lightweight form: the newly-engineered flexible solar panel. Silicon Solar is the proud carrier of over 50 modules of flexible solar panels, offered in a variety of sizes.

Through recent developments, Silicon Solar has provided ways of listing thin, light weight, flexible solar panels allowing for multiple applications to now be solar accessible that never were before.

Thin Film solar cells and panels now allow for several types of application to be introduced into the market including solar backpacks, solar thin film clothing and athletic apparel. We at Silicon Solar have taken these methods to the extreme and receive requests from customers who give us incentive and constructive feedback on developing new ways of utilizing this technology not only for them, but for you as well. Each flexible solar panel can be rolled up to 2 inches in diameter, making the paper thin solar cell one of the most durable and long lasting solar modules on the market.

:}

It is jam band Friday tomorrow and the topic is Solar Water Heaters. I know you can’t wait.

:}

Fed Tax Credits For Geothermal Heatpumps – Finally done with the boring stuff

Now we get to fill out form 5695. Not only that but the credits are good until 2016 when Obama retires. But first the Tax Credits.

Not there silly here:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits#c6

Geo-Thermal Heat Pump Geo-Thermal Heat Pump Same criteria as ENERGY STAR:Closed Loop:
EER >= 14.1
COP >= 3.3Open Loop:
EER >= 16.2
COP >= 3.6Direct Expansion:
EER >= 15
COP >= 3.5
30% of the cost All ENERGY STAR geo-thermal heat pumps qualify for the tax credit.Use IRS Form 5695 PDF Exit ENERGY STARMust be “placed into service” before December 31, 2016.

:}

In this day and age everybody should know what a geothermal heat pump is, but if not:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geothermal_heat_pump

A geothermal heat pump (GHP) system is a central heating and/or air conditioning system that actively pumps heat to or from the shallow ground. It uses the earth as either a source of heat in the winter, or as a coolant in the summer. This design takes advantage of moderate temperatures in the shallow ground to boost efficiency and reduce operational costs. It may be combined with solar heating to form a geosolar system with even greater efficiency.

Geothermal heat pumps are also known by a variety of other names, including geoexchange, earth-coupled, earth energy, ground-source or water-source heat pump. The engineering and scientific community tend to prefer the terms “geoexchange” or “ground-source heat pumps” because very little of the heat originates from true geological sources.[1] Instead, these pumps draw energy from shallow ground heated by the sun in the summer. Genuine geothermal energy from the core of Earth is available only in places where volcanic activity comes close to the surface, and can usually be extracted without the help of a heat pump.

:}

Anyway the first one on the list is my favorite becaused the closed loop is the most flexible. You can run the piping horizontal to the ground if there are mining issues. Or you can go straight down like a well.

http://www.residential.carrier.com/products/geothermalheatpumps/gt-px.shtml

GT-PX Geothermal Heat Pump

Compare Products

 

Ultra-High-Efficient Geothermal Unit for Total Home Comfort

Carrier’s popular GT-PX series is our highest rated geothermal unit, featuring Puron® refrigerant; a two-stage compressor for efficiency; variable speed blower for comfort; E-coated coil; microprocessor control; and a robust, insulated cabinet for quiet operation. Available in vertical top flow, vertical bottom flow and horizontal flow, all with optional hot-water generator. In sizes from 2 through 6 tons.

:}

I used to be fascinated by Open  Loop systems because they seem so natural. Essentially if you are near a lake or a deep pond you vent your waste heat there. But now I see them as potential environmental disruptors but again this about tax credits. They don’t really care about the environment.

 http://www.bryant.com/products/geoheatpumps/index.shtml

Compare

 

GT-PX Geothermal

GT-PX Geothermal

  • Up to 4.6 COP (closed loop)
  • Up to 27.0 EER (closed loop)
  • Up to 5.1 COP (open loop)
  • Up to 31.5 EER (open loop)
  • Two-stage unloading scroll compressor
  • Variable speed blower motor
  • Puron® refrigerant
  • 10-year limited warranty on all compressor & major refrigeration components. 5-year limited warranty on other parts

 

GT-PG Geothermal

GT-PG Geothermal

  • Up to 4.2 COP (closed loop)
  • Up to 20.2 EER (closed loop)
  • Up to 5.1 COP (open loop)
  • Up to 28.1 EER (open loop)
  • Single stage scroll compressor
  • PSC blower (optional variable speed blower motor)
  • Puron refrigerant
  • 10-year limited warranty on all compressor & major refrigeration components. 5-year limited warranty on other parts

GT-G Geothermal

GT-G Geothermal

  • Up to 3.8 COP (closed loop)
  • Up to 18.5 EER (closed loop)
  • Up to 4.1 COP (open loop)
  • Up to 23.9 EER (open loop)
  • Single stage scroll compressor
  • PSC blower (optional variable speed blower motor)
  • 10-year limited warranty on all compressor & major refrigeration components. 5-year limited warranty on other parts

GT-G Geotherm
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As you can see they all have open loop options because a heat exchanger doesn’t care where it puts it’s heat.

The final version is pretty exotic. I guess they are appropriate if you are in an extreme environment:

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/heating-geothermal.htm

Direct Expansion (DX): A geothermal heat pump system in which the refrigerant is circulated in pipes buried in the ground, rather than using a heat transfer fluid, such as water or antifreeze solution in a separate closed loop, and fluid to refrigerant heat exchanger. A DX system includes all of the equipment both inside and outside the house. DX systems may be single or multi-speed.

http://www.mrslim.com/Products/subCategory.asp?ProductCategoryID=24&ProductSubCategoryID=140or

or

 http://www.alibaba.com/product/earthenergysolutions-11290116-10854411/Geothermal_Heat_Pump_Waterless_Direct_Expansion.html

or

http://www.geothermix.com/english/product/direct1.html

Direct Expansion “DX” Units

A direct earth coupled heat pump or “DX” heat pump is one that has its refrigerant evaporator / condenser in direct thermal contact with the earth from which heat is either extracted from during the heating mode or introduced to during the cooling mode of operation.

The general refrigeration cycle of our DX machine is similar in nature to a conventional water-to-air or water-to-water heat pump in that there exist a compressor, expansion device, reversing valve, and refrigerant-to-air heat exchanger. Conventional technology concerned with heat pumps relies upon the transfer of heat from the ground by means of a secondary heat exchanger system and working fluid, e.g., water, which is pumped to the geothermal unit located in the heated structure. The conventional heat pump has it’s own internal primary heat exchanger which extracts heat (heating mode) or rejects heat (cooling mode) from this water, which is then pumped back to the earth to be reheated.

DX systems similarily use a ground coil system, however, the working fluid is a refrigerant and the copper groundloop is the primary heat exchanger. Such geothermal heat exchange is an efficient and effective way of achieving heat exchange in heating and air conditioning systems, and especially heat pump type systems. Since the ground temperature is relatively constant at 48 °F at a depth below the frost line, the available heat is constant.

DX Heat Cycle (Gif 11K)

The elimination of the secondary earth heat exchanger (typically plastic in nature) and its associated working fluid reduces the temperature difference required between the ground and the evaporating refrigerant yielding a higher suction pressure than a conventional system under similar circumstances and thus a higher efficiency.

:}

I like the closed loop the best:

If you are in Las Vegas and you need one installed try:

http://www.plumber-las-vegas.com

:}

Hungarian Vulcan Association Combined – Thats right HVAC Fed Tax Credits

(and its Jam Band Friday – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwGL5LDb4u8  )

If you think that I am going to cover all the Energy Efficient HVAC options covered by these credits you would be out of your mind…It would take for ever. Even though it is Jam Band Friday and I could just sit around and listen to Eric Clapton all day. But first the Tax credits:

 http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits#c3

HVAC Central A/C Split Systems:
EER >=13
SEER >= 16Package systems:
EER >= 12
SEER >= 14
30% of cost, up to $1,5002 For a list of qualified products, read this FAQ.Note — not all ENERGY STAR products will qualify for the tax credit. View ENERGY STAR criteria.
Air Source Heat Pumps Split Systems:
HSPF >= 8.5
EER >= 12.5
SEER >= 15Package systems:
HSPF >= 8
EER >= 12
SEER >= 14
30% of cost, up to $1,5002
Natural Gas or Propane Furnace AFUE >= 95 30% of cost, up to $1,5002 For a partial list of qualifying products go to: Air-Conditioning, Heating, Refrigeration Institute (AHRI) PDF Exit ENERGY STARNot all ENERGY STAR products will qualify for the tax credit. View ENERGY STAR criteria for furnaces, boilers.
Oil Furnace AFUE >= 90 30% of cost, up to $1,5002
Gas, Propane, or Oil Hot Water Boiler AFUE >= 90 30% of cost, up to $1,5002
Advanced Main Air Circulating Fan No more than 2% of furnace total energy use. Read this FAQ if the fan qualifies, but the furnace does not. 30% of cost, up to $1,5002

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnz-wd9uMrY )

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I can not believe that they are still offering tax credits for home heating oil furnaces. That is so late 1800s. The idea that they would be still supporting boilers for gods sake is so 1940s. Proof  That some things never go away. While I much prefer ground based heat pumps Open Air heat pumps are just OK.

( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98XqT4kBWT4 )

Air Source Heat Pumps Split Systems:
HSPF >= 8.5
EER >= 12.5

SEER >= 15

http://www.qualitysmith.com/heat_pump/?src=got0058515ch001pGoogleAdWordsSearch&refcd=GO550t1257028S_air_source_heat_pumps&tsacr=GO2982392887

Find the Perfect Home Heating System

QualitySmith contractors will help you make the best heating system decision for your home and budget. Our partner contractors will walk you through the benefits and features associated with different system types. Just fill in our simple form to find 3 prescreened, reputable heating system contractors to help you make sure you’re ready for cold weather.

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For a much broader discussion of this plus everything else under the sun:

http://www.century-ac.com/consumer_tax_incentives.htm

What are the efficiency requirements to qualify for the credits?

Manufacturers and retailers should be able to help you tell whether a specific product qualifies.

The qualification specifications are:

  • Furnaces and Boilers: Natural gas & propane furnaces must meet an Annual Fuel Use Efficiency (AFUE) 95 or higher, oil furnaces and gas, oil and propane boilers must meet an AFUE of 90 or better.
  • Central Air Conditioning Units:
    • Central air conditioning units and air-source heat pumps must meet the highest tier standards set by the Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE) as of February 17, 2009, which in most cases requires a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) of 16. SEER measures performance throughout the cooling season. More information on the CEE specification.
  • Biomass Stoves: Stoves must have a thermal efficiency of 75% as measured using a lower heating value, and be used to heat a dwelling unit or heat water for use in the same. The law defines biomass fuel as anything from agricultural crops, trees, wood wastes & residues to pellets, plants, grasses and fibers.
  • Fans for heating and cooling systems: fan uses no more than 2% of total heating system energy use, as defined by DOE test procedure. For more information, see the Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association web site. It is still unclear how the 2009 Stimulus legislation has impacted this incentive – it seems reasonable to assume that the cost basis will be the reasonable cost of the fan, not the entire furnace. IRS has yet to issue specific guidance on this issue.
  • Water Heaters:
    • Gas or propane water heaters—Energy Factor of at least 0.82, or a thermal efficiency of at least 90%.
    • Heat pump water heaters—Energy Factor of at least 2.0

Where must the equipment be used?

Under guidance issued by the IRS, equipment is eligible if installed in a home occupied by a taxpayer as their principal residence at the time the equipment is installed. This implies that equipment in new homes is generally not eligible since in new homes equipment is generally installed prior to occupancy. However, efficient equipment in new homes can help that home qualify for the new home tax credit.

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(There was so much more then Layla from Derek and the Dominos –http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxAKPBrjvqI )

If you are interested in the State Tax Incentives for Energy Efficient HVAC equipment here is an excellent site.

http://energytaxincentives.org/general/incentives.php

State and Utility Incentives

In addition to the federal tax incentives, complementary incentives may be available from your state or local utility. For information on many of these programs, see these links:

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When in doubt you can always shop at SEARS

http://www.searshomeimprovements.com/ProductOffer1.aspx?OVMTC=Broad&site=&creative=2768202091&OVKEY=heat+pumps&gclid=CNHe7pK-85oCFQ3yDAodtlirdw&o=2&t=102&primary=true

Your choice in a home improvement company is a big decision. Choose a company you can trust for reliable products, service, installation and peace of mind on one of your biggest investments – your home. Choose Sears!

Reduce Energy Costs and get up to a $1500 Tax Credit from the 2009 Stimulus Package with a new Heating & Cooling System


As your heating & cooling system ages, it can lose its ability to heat or cool your home. Enjoy comfort year round with a new Heating & Cooling System for Sears.
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Gosh just like mom and pops

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AscPOozwYA8 )

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Metal Roofing And Reflective Roofing – I told you I would get to Chu’s call

If you are reading this please click on our gooogle ads…CES is a nonprofit agency and we need all the money we can raise..THANKS

I used to say that the quickest way to green was WHITE. Simply painting your roof white with a durable white paint and backing that with a radiant barrier could cut cooling cost in the summer. People would say, “You don’t want to block heat in the winter.” Yah BUT that is a different issue. I always ask people to stay on topic because energy consumption is a complex issue and we must save energy where ever we can when ever we can.

First the Tax Code:

 http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits#c7

Roofing Metal Roofs,
Asphalt Roofs
All ENERGY STAR qualified metal and reflective asphalt shingles 30% of cost, up to $1,5002 View our FAQ on roofs that qualify for the tax credit

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Then the rationale:

http://www.alternet.org/environment/140287/obama%27s_climate_guru:_paint_your_roof_white!/

Some people believe that nuclear power is the answer to climate change, others have proposed green technologies such as wind or solar power, but Barack Obama’s top man on global warming has suggested something far simpler — painting your roof white.

Steven Chu, the US Secretary of Energy and a Nobel prize-winning scientist, said yesterday that making roofs and pavements white or light-coloured would help to reduce global warming by both conserving energy and reflecting sunlight back into space. It would, he said, be the equivalent of taking all the cars in the world off the road for 11 years.

Speaking in London prior to a meeting of some of the world’s best minds on how to combat climate change, Dr Chu said the simple act of painting roofs white could have a dramatic impact on the amount of energy used to keep buildings comfortable, as well as directly offsetting global warming by increasing the reflectivity of the Earth.

“If that building is air-conditioned, it’s going to be a lot cooler, it can use 10 or 15 per cent less electricity,” he said. “You also do something in that you change the albedo of the Earth — you make it more reflective. So the sunlight comes down and it actually goes back up – there is no greenhouse effect,” Dr Chu said.

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Why backed by a radiant barrier? Because light is made up of different lengths of waves. Loosely stated there are  short wave lengths of light and long wave lengths of light. The short wave lengths bounce off the white but the long wave lengths keep on trucking.

So if you are putting a new roof on your first consideration is a metal roof:

http://www.metalroofing.com/

Appreciate Your Home with Quality Metal Roofing

If you’ve been considering upgrading your home and increasing its resale value, you should know that beautiful and enduring metal roofing is highly valued as one of the top renovation-friendly building materials for rehabbers and new home builders alike.

With resale values of up to 139% (Miami, FL), you can enjoy quality metal roofing on your home at virtually no cost!

As reported by Sal Alfano of Remodeling Magazine, homes renovated with standing-seam metal roofing show a rate of 85.9% cost recouped in the national average with up to 95.5% for homes in the Eastern states, a full 1 and 6% resale value gain over homes roofed with asphalt. And with all the added safety and longevity associated with quality metal roofing matching installation job costs that reach only one half of that of cosmetic room remodeling averages or even one eighth of that of a master suite addition, you hardly deny the sense in upgrading.

Find the Average Metal Roof Value in Your Area:

The following table shows average values associated with a typical roof renovation of 30 squares of standing seam metal, formed on-site into16-inch panels using factory-enameled roll steel (all seams double-locked) with brake-bent flashing from same material for drip edge and all flashing at roof-wall intersections, a 5-square hip roof with custom flashing at two average-sized skylights, a custom cap treatment, all applied over a new felt underlayment with rubberized asphalt membranes at eaves, valleys and all penetrations.

Market Job Cost Resale Value Cost Recouped

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Too pricey for your blood? Well then try reflective shingles.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0EIN/is_2005_March_2/ai_n11838044/

Elk and 3M Pioneer the First Reflective, Colored Asphalt Shingle

Business WireMarch 2, 2005

DALLAS — ElkCorp’s (NYSE:ELK) subsidiary, Elk Premium Building Products, Inc., (Elk) in a joint effort with 3M (NYSE:MMM) Industrial Mineral Products Division, introduced today the innovative Elk Cool Color Series shingle. Elk has created the first reflective, colored asphalt shingle, featuring 3M(TM) Cool Roofing Granules, that meets the initial performance levels of the ENERGY STAR(R) Program.

In the past, asphalt shingles meeting these reflectivity requirements were only available in white. Elk’s Cool Color Series shingle marks the first of its kind to offer homeowners energy efficient asphalt shingles in a choice of earth-toned colors.

More Articles of Interest

“3M innovation led to the development of the 3M Cool Roofing Granules,” said 3M division vice president Greg Linnerooth. “The color palette is up to three times more reflective than comparable typical colored granules. The benefit of more highly reflective granules is the potential energy savings for homeowners, while providing a wide variety of beautiful shingle color blends they have come to expect. Homeowners now have a colorful alternative to white-only shingles.”

Elk Cool Color Series is the result of joint development program with 3M, the world’s leading manufacturer of roofing granules. The effort has produced a reflective asphalt shingle with all of the natural beauty of Elk’s color palette. The energy efficient shingles are the first offered in earthy hues, lighter versions of popular Elk colors: Cool Weatheredwood, Cool Antique Slate and Cool Barkwood. Prestique Cool Color Series shingles carry a 40-year limited warranty and up to a 90 mph limited wind warranty with special application technique(a).

Elk also offers Domain(R) Winslow(R) in its Cool Color Series, a large-scale, wood-shake look shingle available in the Cool Browncastle shade and boasts a 50-year limited warranty and up to a 110 mph limited wind warranty with special application technique(a) (Special application technique is required. See product limited warranty for complete details at www.elkcorp.com).

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The point of all of this is keep weather out and energy in.

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Insulation – Why buy something and throw part of it away

Would you buy a Soda Pop and poor part of it down the drain? Well why would anybody buy energy and cast it into the open air? It is dumb but hundreds of millions of Americans do it every year. There are some experts who argue that we can’t make our appliances or buildings with too much insulation or too “tight” because we have got to breathe. I am not one of those. I believe that air quality can be handled through a heat exchanger:

http://www.lennox.com/badair/beat//ventilation.asp

Many people want to start the discussion there however and I have learned to stop that, by simply saying, “how much insulation do you have in your house”, because no one has enough. At any rate here is what you can get from the Feds;

(while I am thinking about it you can get rebates at the State and local level. I may discuss some of that but geeze there are 50 states and probably 7,000 counties in the US. Most of that info you WILL have to check on your own)

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits#c2

Insulation Insulation Meets 2009 IECC & Amendments 30% of cost, up to $1,5002 For insulation to qualify, its primary purpose must be to insulate (example: insulated siding does not qualify).Must be expected to last 5 years OR have a 2 year warrantyCheck to see if you have Home Performance with ENERGY STAR in your areas. Adding insulation to your home is covered.

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It is pretty straight forward:

Introduction

Why Insulate Your House?Heating and cooling account for 50 to 70% of the energy used in the average American home. Inadequate insulation and air leakage are leading causes of energy waste in most homes. Insulation:
  • saves money and our nation’s limited energy resources
  • makes your house more comfortable by helping to maintain a uniform temperature throughout the house, and
  • makes walls, ceilings, and floors warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.

The amount of energy you conserve will depend on several factors: your local climate; the size, shape, and construction of your house; the living habits of your family; the type and efficiency of the heating and cooling systems; and the fuel you use. Once the energy savings have paid for the installation cost, energy conserved is money saved – and saving energy will be even more important as utility rates go up.

This fact sheet will help you to understand how insulation works, what different types of insulation are available, and how much insulation makes sense for your climate. There are many other things you can do to conserve energy in your home as well. The Department of Energy offers many web sites to help you save energy by sealing air leaks, selecting more energy-efficient appliances, etc.

How Insulation Works Heat flows naturally from a warmer to a cooler space. In winter, the heat moves directly from all heated living spaces to the outdoors and to adjacent unheated attics, garages, and basements – wherever there is a difference in temperature. During the summer, heat moves from outdoors to the house interior. To maintain comfort, the heat lost in winter must be replaced by your heating system and the heat gained in summer must be removed by your air conditioner. Insulating ceilings, walls, and floors decreases the heating or cooling needed by providing an effective resistance to the flow of heat.
Batts, blankets, loose fill, and low-density foams all work by limiting air movement. (These products may be more familiarly called fiberglass, cellulose, polyicynene, and expanded polystyrene.) The still air is an effective insulator because it eliminates convection and has low conduction. Some foams, such as polyisocyanurate, polyurethane, and extruded polystyrene, are filled with special gases that provide additional resistance to heat flow.Reflective insulation works by reducing the amount of energy that travels in the form of radiation. Some forms of reflective insulation also divide a space up into small regions to reduce air movement, or convection, but not to the same extent as batts, blankets, loose-fill, and foam.

Next Section – Which Kind of Insulation is Best?

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But there is a dizzying array of products:

The different forms of insulation can be used together. For example, you can add batt or roll insulation over loose-fill insulation, or vice-versa. Usually, material of higher density (weight per unit volume) should not be placed on top of lower density insulation that is easily compressed. Doing so will reduce the thickness of the material underneath and thereby lower its R-value. There is one exception to this general rule: When attic temperatures drop below 0?F, some low-density, fiberglass, loose-fill insulation installations may allow air to circulate between the top of your ceiling and the attic, decreasing the effectiveness of the insulation. You can eliminate this air circulation by covering the low-density, loose-fill insulation with a blanket insulation product or with a higher density loose-fill insulation.

Blankets, in the form of batts or rolls, are flexible products made from mineral fibers, including fiberglass or rock wool. They are available in widths suited to standard spacings of wall studs and attic or floor joists. They must be hand-cut and trimmed to fit wherever the joist spacing is non-standard (such as near windows, doors, or corners), or where there are obstructions in the walls (such as wires, electrical outlet boxes, or pipes). Batts can be installed by homeowners or professionals. They are available with or without vapor-retarder facings. Batts with a special flame-resistant facing are available in various widths for basement walls where the insulation will be left exposed.
Blown-in loose-fill insulation includes cellulose, fiberglass, or rock wool in the form of loose fibers or fiber pellets that are blown using pneumatic equipment, usually by professional installers. This form of insulation can be used in wall cavities. It is also appropriate for unfinished attic floors, for irregularly shaped areas, and for filling in around obstructions.
In the open wall cavities of a new house, cellulose and fiberglass fibers can also be sprayed after mixing the fibers with an adhesive or foam to make them resistant to settling.
Foam insulation can be applied by a professional using special equipment to meter, mix, and spray the foam into place. Polyisocyanurate and polyurethane foam insulation can be produced in two forms: open-cell and closed-cell. In general, open-celled foam allows water vapor to move through the material more easily than closed-cell foam. However, open-celled foams usually have a lower R-value for a given thickness compared to closed-cell foams. So, some of the closed-cell foams are able to provide a greater R-value where space is limited.
Rigid insulation is made from fibrous materials or plastic foams and is produced in board-like forms and molded pipe coverings. These provide full coverage with few heat loss paths and are often able to provide a greater R-value where space is limited. Such boards may be faced with a reflective foil that reduces heat flow when next to an air space. Rigid insulation is often used for foundations and as an insulative wall sheathing.
Reflective insulation systems are fabricated from aluminum foils with a variety of backings such as kraft paper, plastic film, polyethylene bubbles, or cardboard. The resistance to heat flow depends on the heat flow direction, and this type of insulation is most effective in reducing downward heat flow. Reflective systems are typically located between roof rafters, floor joists, or wall studs. If a single reflective surface is used alone and faces an open space, such as an attic, it is called a radiant barrier.Radiant barriers are installed in buildings to reduce summer heat gain and winter heat loss. In new buildings, you can select foil-faced wood products for your roof sheathing (installed with the foil facing down into the attic) or other locations to provide the radiant barrier as an integral part of the structure. For existing buildings, the radiant barrier is typically fastened across the bottom of joists, as shown in this drawing. All radiant barriers must have a low emittance (0.1 or less) and high reflectance (0.9 or more).

Previous Section – Introduction
Next Section – Insulating a New House

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People used to ask me if I had a preference and for the longest time I did. Now I just say get the most R’s for the lowest price. There is a nice guy from Pawnee, Kent Olson, that sells a hi tech version:

http://www.pawnee-lumber.com/

ESP Low-E

http://www.low-e.com/

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