Weird Bird Friday – This one will be a quick one because there is breaking news

TGI(WB)F! Heh we should start a restaurant that serves only emmu or something. Its a totally original idea. Today’s weird bird is more like birds. There are 4 birds in the picture, can you point them out:

http://shop.onrez.com/item/53856

tattoobird.jpg

Dedicated to John and Susan in Denver who have increasingly focused on the Great Denver Fire caused by the 2008 Democrat Convention.

http://www.thedrunkablog.blogspot.com/

Little do people know that they both have very naughty tattoos on large parts of their bodies.

Green Cars – Can we get rid of the internal combustion engine fast enough?

Forget high gasoline prices. That maybe a short term issue but the fact is global warming is the more important issue that we should not lose sight of:

 http://www.greencar.com/

2010 Prius Production

Moves to US

By Todd Kaho

Like all automakers, Toyota is acutely aware of evolving consumer demands and is responding with some pivotal changes in its manufacturing structure and product mix. It’s beginning this in a big way by adjusting the production mix at three of its U.S. plants to improve production efficiency. In short, big trucks like the new Tundra aren’t selling so Toyota is aiming at the need to build more of its fuel-efficient cars that are in high demand. And the place to start? The Prius, of course.

The most interesting news to come out of this shift is that the next-generation Prius hybrid will be assembled at Toyota’s new Blue Springs, Mississippi plant in late 2010. That move makes it the second Toyota hybrid to be built in the U.S., with the current Camry Hybrid already assembled in Kentucky. The Highlander mid-size SUV was originally slated for production at the Mississippi plant but will now be built at Toyota’s Princeton, Indiana manufacturing facility in place of the full-size Tundra pickup. All current Prius models are currently built at Toyota’s Motomachi Plant in Toyota City, Japan. The move toward building popular hybrids in the markets where they’re already selling well or are expected to do so is already in play at Toyota, which announced recently that it would build the Camry Hybrid in Melbourne, Australia for that market.

When it emerges from the Mississippi assembly plant, the 2010 Prius will be the fourth generation of Toyota’s iconic gasoline-electric hybrid in North America. Speculation and rumors about the new car are running rampant as the current Prius – introduced as a completely revised model in 2004 – nears the end of its life cycle. Spy shots are circulating of what “might” be the next-generation Prius and sketches imagining what the next iteration will look like are also at play. Some are speculating that the 1/X Concept shown here, which debuted at the most recent Tokyo Motor Show, may provide clues regarding the look of the next Prius. The reality is that nobody really knows the true scoop. No doubt, when the new Prius debuts at the 2009 North American International Auto Show (NAIAS) in Detroit this coming January the world will definitely be watching.  

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http://www.greenercars.org/highlights_mkttrends.htm

The Greenest of 2008

This year, the natural gas-powered Honda Civic GX claims the title as the greenest vehicle for the fifth year running. Toyota’s hybrid-electric Prius, which places second, is the year’s top-scoring gasoline vehicle, while Honda’s Civic Hybrid ranks a close third. Rounding out the top five are the recently released Smart Fortwo Convertible and Coupe and Toyota Yaris. In total, the Greenest Vehicles list contains one natural gas, four hybrid-electric, and seven conventional gasoline vehicles, a mix of technologies that demonstrates some of the avenues automakers have taken in developing greener vehicles. Whether using hybrid gasoline-electric designs, compressed natural gas, or simply clean and efficient conventional gasoline designs, automakers have visibly demonstrated their ability to engineer with the environment in mind.

This year sees a number of changes to the nameplates on the Greenest Vehicles list. After being shut out of the top twelve in 2007, a domestic automaker makes an appearance on our top-twelve list. The 2008 Tier 2 Bin 3 / PZEV-certified Ford Focus comfortably takes the 9th spot in the annual ranking. Other new entries to the 2008 “Greenest” list include the Smart Fortwo Convertible/Coupe and the Mini Cooper/Clubman, both small cars that achieve excellent fuel economy.  However, Hyundai’s PZEV-certified Elantra narrowly misses a spot on our list, landing in 13th place as a result of the above-mentioned new entries. Following suit are the Kia Rio, Hyundai Accent, Chevrolet Cobalt, and Pontiac G5, all of which score very well according to our ranking but face more competition this year from several clean vehicles that have entered the market. This is, of course, good news to consumers, who have greater options when it comes to buying the greenest vehicle that meets their needs and fits their budget.

Other good news is the fact that the vast majority of the year’s greenest vehicles are widely available coast-to-coast. Not too long ago, the list was dominated by vehicles for sale only in California, while today more than 80 percent of the Greenest Vehicles can be purchased in any state.

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http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center-top100/

Concept Green Cars

Toyota first demonstrated a futuristic hybrid concept vehicle at the Tokyo Auto Show in 1995. The car, which consisted of an electric motor connected to a regular gasoline engine, was called the Toyota Prius. Hybrid skeptics ?both at the show and afterward?are now silent, as cumulative global sales continue to surpass all expectations. Which of today’s wild and wacky hi-tech enviro car concepts will become tomorrow’s practical fuel-efficient vehicles? Let’s take a look at some contenders.

Volvo 3CC

The Volvo 3CC concept car, a rocket-shaped three-seater, can accommodate the full range of power systems, from traditional gasoline and alternative fuels such as ethanol, to hybrid and all electric. Three thousand lithium-ion batteries, just like those used in laptop computers, give it the equivalent of 105 horsepower. The 3CC has the aerodynamics of a two-seat sports car, but can slip a third passenger, or perhaps two children, in a single seat in the back.

 Daihatsu UFE III

Daihatsu, the Japanese car company known for compacts, is on the third generation of the UFE (which stand for Ultra Fuel Economy). This mini-hybrid vehicle can transport three people?one upfront, and two in the back. The hybrid system comprises a 660-cubic centimeter direct-injection gasoline engine, two motors, and a nickel-metal hydride battery. Its estimated fuel economy is 169 miles per gallon.

Nissan Pivo

Nissan has developed a bubble-shaped, three-seater electric car called the Pivo?short for pivot. It runs exclusively on electricity. The cabin sits atop a wheeled platform that can swivel 360 degrees, doing away with the need to reverse when emerging from narrow spaces.

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But these are concept cars which means that they are years away from production. I do not think we are going to make it.

For more:

www.epa.gov/greenvehicle

www.editorial.autos.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=434502

www.thegreencarco.com/

http://puregreencars.com/

www.ecoworld.com/energy/EcoWorld_Energy_Green_Vehicles1.cfm

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Green Cars Before It’s Too Late – Did Ford know that he was killing us?

 Since the oil/gasoline price spike I have avoided driving. I know that not everyone can do that but I refuse to give 1.50$ to oil speculators and .50$ to gasoline refiners through rigged gasoline prices. Still the question of whether Henry Ford knew he was killing us by using the sky as an open sewer is intriguing

 http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1594/is_n6_v5/ai_16437572

Ford’s environmentalism is more practical. Vehicle Recyclability Coordinator Susan Day is touring the country, touting the company’s use of recycled products in its far-flung manufacturing operations. “The first Henry Ford used to break down shipping crates and use the wood as floorboards for the Model T,” she said. “And he also tried to build car bodies out of soybeans.” The latter operation was aborted after cows began showing an interest in eating the finished product, but Ford is now recycling more than it ever did.

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Early on he was a pacifist:

http://www.spartacus.schoolnet.co.uk/USAford.htm

On the outbreak of the First World War in Europe, Ford soon made it clear he opposed the war and supported the decision of the Woman’s Peace Party to organize a peace conference in Holland. After the conference Ford was contacted by America’s three leading anti-war campaigners, Jane Addams, Oswald Garrison Villard, and Paul Kellogg. They suggested that Ford should sponsor an international conference in Stockholm to discuss ways that the conflict could be brought to an end.Ford came up with the idea of sending a boat of pacifists to Europe to see if they could negotiate an agreement that would end the war. He chartered the ship Oskar II, and it sailed from Hoboken, New Jersey on 4th December, 1915. The Ford Peace Ship reached Stockholm in January, 1916, and a conference was organized with representatives from Denmark, Holland, Norway, Sweden and the United States. However, unable to persuade representatives from the warring nations to take part, the conference was unable to negotiate an Armistice.

 :}Apparently he was a big fan of biofuels and assumed his cars would run on ethanol. In fact he favored waste plants and cellulose rich plants for the creation of that ethanol:

http://www.hempcar.org/ford.shtml

Fuel of the Future

When Henry Ford told a New York Times reporter that ethyl alcohol was “the fuel of the future” in 1925, he was expressing an opinion that was widely shared in the automotive industry. “The fuel of the future is going to come from fruit like that sumach out by the road, or from apples, weeds, sawdust — almost anything,” he said. “There is fuel in every bit of vegetable matter that can be fermented. There’s enough alcohol in one year’s yield of an acre of potatoes to drive the machinery necessary to cultivate the fields for a hundred years.”

Ford recognized the utility of the hemp plant. He constructed a car of resin stiffened hemp fiber, and even ran the car on ethanol made from hemp. Ford knew that hemp could produce vast economic resources if widely cultivated.

Ford’s optimistic appraisal of cellulose and crop based ethyl alcohol fuel can be read in several ways. First, it can be seen as an oblique jab at a competitor. General Motors had come to considerable grief that summer of 1925 over another octane boosting fuel called tetra-ethyl lead, and government officials had been quietly in touch with Ford engineers about alternatives to leaded gasoline additives. Secondly, by 1925 the American farms that Ford loved were facing an economic crisis that would later intensify with the depression. Although the causes of the crisis were complex, one possible solution was seen in creating new markets for farm products. With Ford’s financial and political backing, the idea of opening up industrial markets for farmers would be translated into a broad movement for scientific research in agriculture that would be labelled “Farm Chemurgy”.

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He is faring better than I thought he would. Wonder if the Oil and Gas Companies had anything to do with the Great Depression? Oh.

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Then there is this:

 http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/15233556/

Renewable energy has an icon:

Henry Ford

Conference hears about

history and ‘bioenergy’ future

 061012_henry_ford_hmed_7a_hmedium.jpg

  ST. LOUIS – A century ago, Henry Ford’s Model T was the first flexible-fuel vehicle, running on gas, ethanol or both, and the automaker foretold the future when he said fuel could be gotten from fruit, weeds, sawdust, or anything else that could be fermented.

The story, as told by Archer Daniels Midland’s CEO Patricia Woertz, resonated with her audience at a national renewable energy conference here Wednesday.

Woertz, formerly head of refining at Chevron, now heads the Decatur, Ill.,-based agricultural company that is also the biggest ethanol producer in the U.S.

Count her among the converted.

“We believe we are just at the start of this new era of bioenergy,” she said, acknowledging ADM began building toward that start 30 years ago. “We believe the market can and should grow larger.”

Woertz was among dozens of speakers representing business, financing, government and research at the conference co-hosted by the U.S. departments of energy and agriculture.

President Bush addressed the conference Thursday, saying that, while he liked seeing the recent drop in oil prices, “it’s not going to dim my enthusiasm for making sure we diversify away from oil.”

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Then there is this:

 http://www.umd.umich.edu/eic/fordestate.htm

 ford1.jpg

ford11.jpg

The Castle Made of Fossils:

Henry Ford Estate Fairlane

The building material used to build Henry Ford’s final estate in 1914 is Limestone from Kelley’s Island in Ohio.  Glaciers carved out this island exposing many fossils which can be seen in the walls of the the estate.  For more information on Kelley’s Island and its rich natural history please visit the Kelley’s Island Natural History webpage.   The Natural Area is located on the grounds of the Henry Ford Estate.  Henry Ford helped to create and shape this landscape in the early 1900’s.  To learn more about the Estate, please visit the Henry Ford Estate official website.    

This waterfall on the Rouge River was used by Henry Ford to generate electricity for his home.  The Estate’s Powerhouse still generates electricity today.   In 1914, Thomas Edison laid the cornerstone for the Powerhouse.  Can you find the Cornerstone that he laid?

 

Scavenger Hunt Question:
Can you find the cornerstone on the powerhouse near the waterfall behind the Estate? It was laid on October, 1914.

Environmental Interpretive Center   University of Michigan-Dearborn
4901 Evergreen Road  Dearborn, MI 48128 (313)593-5338 
 

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So even though he spread the combustion engine throughout the world which ultimately could do us in he was an EARLY Environmentalist. He generated his own Hydro Power. I am so kind>
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State Journal Register Supports Big Oil –

Last week the State Journal Register solicited a “Guest OP-ED” piece from the mouth piece for the Illinois Petroleum Council that in simple form says we must overcome our current energy crisis by,  Conservation and
fuel economy
  (which he instantly discounts), Stronger energy-trading alliances with neighbors, Expand domestic resources, and  Diversify supply.  By diversify he means Nukes. You can read the rest of the slop at:

http://www.sj-r.com/opinions/x833727955/David-Sykuta-We-have-to-get-over-it-and-explore-energy-options

I know for a fact that many people have written to respond against most of his ideas because many environmentalists including Will Reynolds and Diane Lopez always do. I posting my letter here because I sent one and they did not publish it:

Editor

State Journal Register

One Copley Plaza

Springfield, IL 62701

Emailed – 07/015/08

Dear Editor:

 

Dave Sykuta recent guest editorial “Get Over It” (the title of an Eagles song)  was nothing but one long environmental taunt. It had nothing to do with the irrationality we call the Oil Market.

 

Supply is not the overwhelming issue that he makes it out to be. The Iranians have 7 or 8 super tankers full of oil (depending on which report you listen to) parked in their main port because nobody is buying them. Why? Because the price is artificially elevated. Speculators beginning as far back as September of last year have bought up the cheap oil. We are now at a precipitous economic moment. An oil Mexican Standoff. The speculators can’t sell or the price will drop dramatically and hardly anyone is buying because they know the price is too high. Best guesstamates are that at least 40-50$$ of the current price of oil is due to speculators.

 

But the Drillers want to take advantage of this artificial shortage to get more Leases, because in their warped minds the leases that they hold are the leases the other guy don’t. The proof of this is the current 85 million acres that they lease that they won’t explore.

 

Really though nobody cares about the price of oil, what they car about is the prices of gasoline products. That price is being rigged as well. Refineries are at 85% of their capacity because if they ran the refineries at capacity they would lose money. In a perverse market flaw, the more they make the cheaper gas becomes and they lose money. Again the gasoline refiners are using the rigged higher oil prices to run up their profits by keeping refineries at the bare minimum it takes to run this country.

 

All the loud shouting at each other about the price we pay at the pump has obscured the realities on the ground. Oil production has been stuck on 85 million barrels a day now for sometime. Even though everybody has pledged to raise it. That may be the real limit on production and the world may have to learn live with it, discounting the fact that China is hording diesel in preparation for the Olympics.

 

Anyway, “if the drill here drill now” crowd had their way, what would they drill with? Brazil just bought or leased the 160 available rigs in the world to try to extract oil from their new alleged oil field off their southern coast.

 

When an oilman that I trust (there ain’t many – please see There Will Be Blood) T. Boone Pickens pledges to build a 1000 megawatt wind farm in Texas and then pays his own money for an TV advertisement to say why. (hint: we are running out of oil) Then I go with the wind farm guy every time.

 

I believe the Eagles said they would tour again when hell freezes over. Did I miss something?

  

Doug Nicodemus

948 e. adams st.

riverton, IL  62561

629-7031

dougnic55@yahoo.com

 

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AND YET THEY RUN STORIES LIKE THIS IN THEIR Business Section in the newspaper and don’t even acknowledge that they did on their web site:

http://www.pe.com/business/local/stories/PE_Biz_S_oilprofits22.3ad2ac6.html

Big Oil steers record profits to investors

MONEY: Critics say too much is going into stock

buybacks and not enough into exploration.

By JOHN PORRETTO
The Associated Press
HOUSTON – As giant oil companies like Exxon Mobil and ConocoPhillips get set to report what will probably be another round of eye-popping quarterly profits, just where is all that money going?The companies insist they’re trying to find new oil that might help bring down gas prices, but the money they spend on exploration is nothing compared with what they spend on stock buybacks and dividends.It’s good news for shareholders, including mutual funds and retirement plans for millions of Americans, but no help to drivers already making drastic cutbacks to offset the high cost of fuel. The five biggest international oil companies plowed about 55 percent of the cash they made from their businesses into stock buybacks and dividends last year, up from 30 percent in 2000 and just 1 percent in 1993, according to Rice University’s James A. Baker III Institute for Public Policy.

The percentage they spend to find new deposits of fossil fuels has remained flat for years, in the mid-single digits.

The issue has become more sensitive as lawmakers and Americans frustrated by high gas prices have balked at gaudy reports of oil industry profits. ConocoPhillips is scheduled to kick off the latest round of Big Oil earnings reports Wednesday.

Oil prices are set on the open market, not by the oil industry. But that hasn’t stopped public protests, a series of congressional grillings for top oil executives, and a failed attempt by lawmakers to slap Big Oil with a windfall profits tax.

In the first three months of this year, Exxon Mobil Corp., the world’s biggest publicly traded oil company, shelled out $8.8 billion on stock buybacks alone, compared with $5.5 billion on exploration and other capital projects.

ConocoPhillips has already told investors that its stock buybacks for April to June of this year will come to about $2.5 billion — nine times what it spent on exploration.

Stock buybacks are common throughout corporate America, not just for Big Oil. They shrink the amount of stock on the open market, essentially increasing its value and giving individual shareholders a bigger stake in the company.

But some critics say Big Oil focuses too much on boosting stock prices, in an industry that sometimes ties executive pay to stock price.

And in focusing on buybacks and dividends over exploring for new oil, some critics say, oil companies jeopardize its already dwindling share of world supply.

“If you’re not spending your money finding and developing new oil, then there’s no new oil,” said Amy Myers Jaffe, an energy expert at Rice University who’s studied spending patterns of the major oil companies.

Investor-owned companies like Exxon Mobil and Chevron hold less than 10 percent of global oil and gas reserves, way down from past decades. And finding new oil has become harder and more expensive.

No one questions that Big Oil is rolling in cash. The cash the biggest oil companies bring in from running their businesses, or operating cash flow, is four times what it was in the early 1990s.

“It becomes a management decision,” said Howard Silverblatt, a senior index analyst at Standard & Poor’s. “It’s not like they’re going to the board and saying, ‘Well, I can do one or the other or the other.’ The balance sheets are flush with cash.”
 

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Oil Hits 128$$ Per Barrel – We are all going to die!

Oh never mind. As I said, all along, the oil run up was 3 parts speculation and 1 part nerves. As the August Senate hearings approach on speculation the speculators, like the cock roaches that they are, will scurry and the nerves will harden. Guess what? Oil will fall to 70$$ a barrel and gas prices will come down. How will the American public respond to the fact that they just stuffed 350 billion $$ in speculators pockets? Like sheep – BAAAAAAAAA?

This will happen again however so now that we have a house we can live in, in energy confort what shall we do with what is sitting in the driveway? Like the speculators – SELL

http://www.cartalk.com/

http://www.sj-r.com

Friday, July 18, 2008

.

It’s time to dump SUV

.

TOM AND RAY MAGLIOZZI 

.

DEAR TOM AND RAY: This will prob­ably seem like a really stupid question, but I need professional advice. I own a 1-year-old Jeep in perfect condition, which I purchased for my job. I was laid off from said job, and now I own a gas-guzzling, really nice-looking Jeep Grand Cherokee that is too big and too expensive for me to drive, espe­cially since I no longer have a job. My question is, Should I trade it in for a smaller, more fuel-efficient car? I have no payments, and being unemployed limits what I could purchase. With gas prices continuing to climb, I don’t real­ly know what I should do, since I own the vehicle outright. Care to advise an idiot? — Micci

RAY: I guess this is what you might call “idiot-to-idiot” communication.

TOM: Or, more accurately, “idiot-AND-idiot-to-idiot communication.” So consider yourself warned, Micci.

RAY: Actually, you’re hardly alone. SUVs and pickups were, for many people, a fashion trend during the past 10 years. And like many fashion trends, they were, at heart, exceeding­ly impractical.

TOM: Tell me about it. Try wearing a miniskirt like I did during the entire winter of’68!

RAY: People who didn’t need pick­ups and SUVs bought them anyway, because they were seen as cool, despite the fact that they handled like crud, tended to flip over more than other ve­hicles, ripped countless inseams during ingress and egress, and drank gas like it was a dark-chocolate-caramel-mocha freddo from Feet’s Coffee.

TOM: So now, here we are, with a lot of people stuck with SUVs that get 15 mpg while gas is $4 a gallon. What to do?

RAY: I’d say dump it, Micci. You’re going to take a bath on it, no question. Anytime you sell a car that’s a year old, you take a huge hit from initial de­preciation. Add to that the fact that you’re selling a vehicle that not many people want nowadays, for the same reasons you don’t want it. But there’s always a price at which someone will take it.

TOM: If you don’t want to sell it yourself, you can even try CarMax, if there’s one in your area. They buy late-model cars at the wholesale price.

RAY: And since you own it outright, you can take the cash you get, buy a cheaper 2-, 3- or 4-year-old fuel-effi­cient car, and then put aside a few grand to get you through this period of unemployment.

TOM: If you had an income and weren’t in desperate straits, you could hang on to it a little longer, to see if gas prices level off and come down a bit — which they might. That might make your Jeep a little more valuable on the used-car market. But if you can’t afford the gas to go out looking for a job, you need to do something now. Plus, I don’t see gas prices com­ing down a lot.

RAY: Me, either. Combine the insta­bility and war in the Middle East with increased demand from growing economies in China and India, and the decreasing supply of oil in the Earth, and the long-term trend for oil prices is up, rather than down.

Got a question about cars? Write to Click and Clack in care of this newspa­per, or e-mail them by visiting the Car Talk Web site at www.cartalk.com.

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Energy Efficient Dishwasher – The secret is they use less water

As with the Clothes Washer, the Dish Washer uses hot water and that is the big cost. Our house is super insulated and the water is solar heated so we save a lot more money then the normal home owner. The experts say:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=dishwash.pr_dishwashers

 Dishwashers

Replacing a dishwasher manufactured before 1994 with an ENERGY STAR qualified dishwasher can save you more than $30 a year in utility costs.

 Earning the ENERGY STAR means a product meets strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the US Environmental Protection Agency and the US Department of Energy.

  • ENERGY STAR qualified dishwashers use at least 41 percent less energy than the federal minimum standard for energy consumption.
  • ENERGY STAR qualified dishwashers use much less water than conventional models. Saving water helps protect our nation’s water supplies.
  • Because they use less hot water compared to new conventional models, an ENERGY STAR qualified dishwasher saves about $90 over its lifetime.

Remember, saving energy prevents pollution. By choosing ENERGY STAR, you are helping prevent global warming and promote cleaner air without sacrificing the product quality and performance you expect.

You may also be interested to know that you can save extra energy while washing dishes, whether with a standard or an ENERGY STAR model:

  • Run your dishwasher with a full load. Most of the energy used by a dishwasher goes to heat water. Since you can’t decrease the amount of water used per cycle, fill your dishwasher to get the most from the energy used to run it.
  • Avoid using the heat-dry, rinse-hold and pre-rinse features. Instead use your dishwasher’s air-dry option.

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More over: 

http://www.aceee.org/consumerguide/dishwashing.htm

To find the most efficient products, download a list of qualifying products from the ENERGY STAR Web site (link to excel file in the upper-right). Sort by “Size” and “Energy Factor” to see which meet our recommendations (below). You may need to also check product literature or with your utility for further specifications. For a quick search by manufacturer, here’s a direct link to the list in html.

When buying a new dishwasher, consider the following:

1. High Energy Factor
ACEEE recommends that you consider dishwashers that have an Energy Factor (EF) of at least 0.65, or an estimated energy use of less than 340 kWh/year. This is about 40% better than the federal standard. You can find which products meet this requirement on the showroom floor by looking on the yellow EnergyGuide label on each product.

Energy Factor measures the number of cycles that can be run with 1 kWh of electricity, and, unlike clothes washer efficiency ratings, does not take into account water use; although high-efficiency models are more likely to incorporate improvements to the spray arm, sump geometry, and/or pump design to reduce water requirements per cycle.

2. Low Water Use
To find the most water-efficient models, you must look beyond ENERGY STAR and EnergyGuide. Some ENERGY STAR models use half as much water as others, saving hundreds of gallons of water each year. Check the manufacturer’s literature or contact your local water utility. In some states, electric and water utilities offer rebates for the purchase of models that are exceptionally efficient.

3. Wash Cycle Options
Most dishwashers have several different wash cycle selections. The more options you have, the better you can tailor the energy and water use needed for a particular load. Look at the manufacturer’s literature for total water use with different cycles.
Some dishwashers on the market today use “soil sensor” technology to automatically adjust water use depending on how dirty the dishes are in each load. There are highly-efficient dishwashers with and without this feature.4. Energy-Saving “No-Heat” Dry
An electric heating element is generally used to dry dishes at the end of the final rinse cycle, consuming about 7% of dishwasher energy use. Most new dishwashers offer an energy-saving no-heat drying feature. At the end of the rinse cycle, if the feature is selected, room air is circulated through the dishwasher by fans, rather than using an electric heating element to bake the dishes dry.

Energy Saving Tips

Whether you are buying a new dishwasher or using an existing one, you may be able to save a considerable amount of energy by changing the way you operate it.

  • Avoid Hand-Washing
    Studies are showing more and more that, when used to maximize energy-saving features, modern dishwashers can outperform all but the most frugal hand washers.
  • Scrape, Don’t Rinse
    Studies show that most people pre-rinse dishes before loading them into the dishwasher, even though dishwashers purchased within the last 5–10 years do a superb job of cleaning even heavily soiled dishes. If you find you must rinse dishes first, get in the habit of using cold water.
  • Follow Manufacturer Instructions
    Completely fill the racks to optimize water and energy use, but allow proper water circulation for adequate cleaning.
  • Wash Only Full Loads
    The dishwasher uses the same amount of water whether it’s half-full or completely full, so nothing will save more energy than waiting to run your dishwasher. If you find that it takes a day or two to get a full load, use the rinse and hold feature common on newer models. This will prevent build up of dried-on food while saving time and water compared to pre-rinsing each item. The rinse feature typically uses only 1 to 2 gallons of water.
  • Use Energy-Saving Cycle Options
    Pay attention to the cycle options on your dishwasher and select the cycle that requires the least amount of energy for the job. Use the no-heat air-dry feature on your dishwasher if it has one.
  • Turn Down the Water Heater Temperature
    Since the early 1990s, most dishwashers in the U.S. have been sold with built-in heaters to boost water temperature to 140–145°F, the temperature recommended by manufacturers for optimum dishwashing performance. The advantage to the booster heater is that you can turn down your water heater thermostat to 120°F (typically half-way between the “medium” and “low” settings

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AND The Winners Are:

http://products.pricerunner.com/results/query?q=energy+efficient+dishwashers

 

General Electric GLD4400NWW / GLD4400NBB / GLD4400NCC Built-in Dishwasher

This 24″ Built-In Dishwasher by GE, provides you with an array of useful features to ensure clean dishes, efficient use of your time, and a sleek design to compliment any kitchen decor.One specific feature highlight of the GLD4400N is the 6-Level…

$314.oo

 

 

 

Frigidaire FDB1502RGC Built-in Dishwasher

ENERGY STAR qualified appliance. Imagine efficient cleaning that saves both time and energy. The tall tub design of the ENERGY STAR qualified dishwasher can wash up to 14 five-piece place settings at once and the 5-level Precision Direct Water Delivery…

$310.00

 

 

Frigidaire FDB1502RGS Built-in Dishwasher

ENERGY STAR+ qualified appliance. Imagine efficient cleaning that saves both time and energy. The tall tub design of the ENERGY STAR+ qualified dishwasher can wash up to 14 five-piece place settings at once.

$289.00

 

Fagor LFA-65 IT Built-in Dishwasher

The AIS Fagor Dishwashers regulate consumption and troubleshoot for you. These dishwashers simplify your everyday chores and make the most efficient use of your appliances, allowing you to use water, energy and time according to your needs.

$799.00

 

General Electric GLD4650NCS Built-in Dishwasher

This 24″ Built-In Dishwasher by GE, provides you with an array of useful features to ensure clean dishes, efficient use of your time, and a sleek design to compliment any kitchen decor.One specific feature highlight of the GLD4600N is the 6-Level…

$404.00

 

Fagor LFA-073 IT Built-in Dishwasher

The AIS Fagor Dishwashers regulate consumption and troubleshoot for you. These dishwashers simplify your everyday chores and make the most efficient use of your appliances, allowing you to use water, energy and time according to your needs.

$999.00

 

Fagor LFA-065 SS Stainless Steel 23 in. Built-in Dishwasher

The new AIS Fagor Dishwashers regulate consumption and troubleshoot for you. These dishwashers simplify your everyday chores and make the most efficient use of your appliances, allowing you to use water, energy and time according to your needs.

$899.00

 

Hotpoint HDA3500NCC Built-in Dishwasher

This dishwasher features a 5-level PowerScrub wash system with PowerShower that has 5 wash levels and redesigned wash arms direct water precisely for a quiet and efficient clean. The 100% water filtration with ExtraFine filter helps deliver clean…

$239.00

 

General Electric HDA3540NSA Built-in Dishwasher

This dishwasher features a 5-level PowerScrub wash system with PowerShower that has 5 wash levels and redesigned wash arms direct water precisely for a quiet and efficient clean. The 100% water filtration with ExtraFine filter helps deliver clean…

$269.00

 

DCS DD124-C Built-in Dishwasher

Powerful and efficient. Choose from nine distinct cycles, including four energy-saving Eco Options, for maximum flexibility. Handy door controls and a concealed control panel give you the ease of on-touch programming. Detergent dissolves immediately,…

$849.00

Energy Efficient Clothes Washing Machines – Rub a dub dub three men in a tub

The beauty here is the bulk of your cost to operate a washing machine consists in heating the water. Since our mythical homeowner is both super insulated and using a solar water heater, we can wash clothes for next to nothing:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=clotheswash.pr_clothes_washers

Residential Clothes Washers

Want to save money and protect the environment? Ask for ENERGY STAR…

An ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washer can save you $550 in operating costs over its lifetime compared to a regular clothes washer. ENERGY STAR qualified washers are also better for the environment because lowering energy and water use means less air pollution from power plants and less water going to waste.

Locate a store nearby that sells ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washers

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Here is one of many reviews. IN FACT I am shocked that you have to look for most of the residential stuff we have reviewed so far. You type energy efficient washing machines into google and you get hundreds of sites. I swear there is something wrong with this country sometimes.

http://www.consumersearch.com/www/house_and_home/washing-machine-reviews/

Washing Machines Reviews

 GE WJRE5500GWW

Best top-loading washer.

While some basic top-load washers have plummeted in performance testing when it comes to cleaning ability, the GE WJRE5500GWW gets good scores for washing performance and costs less than a high-efficiency front loader. This model has a 3.5-cubic-foot capacity with a stainless steel tub and the usual wash cycles. It uses rotary dial controls. Also included is an automatic load balancer – a feature that’s starting to disappear on less expensive washing machines. The most common owner complaint is that this washer’s spin cycle isn’t particularly strong, so clothes may need more drying time.

Fisher & Paykel Intuitive Eco IWL16

Most reliable high-efficiency top-loader.

There are now many high-efficiency top loaders on the market — these replace an agitator with some other technology that uses less water and energy. Unfortunately, we read very mixed owner reviews for most of these, including the Maytag Bravos and Whirlpool Cabrio. Owners seem far happier with the Fisher & Paykel Intuitive Eco IWL16, which uses less energy than a conventional top loader, yet gets clothes as clean or cleaner with less noise. Three spin speeds let you customize how much water is wrung out — the 1,000 rpm speed is great for towels and jeans, meaning they’ll need less drying time. Unlike other high-efficiency washers, you can use regular detergent with the Intuitive Eco.

Frigidaire GLTF2940F

Top budget front-loader.

Front-loading washing machines clean better, are more energy efficient and use less water than conventional top-loading machines. The trouble is that reliability is often iffy. The Frigidaire GLTF2940F is one of the cheapest front loading washers available, yet its scores for efficiency and cleaning ability are as good as some models that cost twice as much. The Frigidaire is a bargain if you want a front-loading washer, but we did read some complaints about water building up in the rubber door seal causing odors — a very common complaint with most front loaders. Reports on reliability are mixed, but in line with what we’ve seen for most washers.

LG SteamWasher WM2688HNMA

Best front-loading washing machine.

Unlike most other machines, the LG SteamWasher offers an important extra: two steam cycles. One steam cycle prepares clothes for ironing, while the other sanitizes them for a longer period, which reduces lingering odors. The LG has a large-capacity 4-cubic-foot stainless steel washtub, and its faster 1,320-rpm spin cycle gets more water out of laundry (which means less drying time). This machine also features a delay cycle that can put laundry on hold up to 19 hours, and the wash cycle can be monitored remotely via computer. While expensive, the LG TROMM gets better owner-written reviews than other front-loading washing machines.

July 8, 2008 Update We found the most thorough, credible and up-to-date washing machine reviews at Consumer Reports. Its website also has a moderated discussion board that allows subscribers to ask questions and exchange information about washing machines. Its methodical testing in several categories helps buyers to choose the best washers currently on the market. Although we also found excellent hands-on evaluations and extensive testing of washers at Australia’s Choice and Britain’s Which? magazines, most of the models in these two publications are not available in the U.S., so these articles are of less help to American consumers.Good Housekeeping magazine used to be a good place to find reviews on major appliances, but we didn’t find any recently written information on washing machines. However, we have found an increasingly large number of owner-written reviews for washing machines, which are extremely helpful when it comes to gauging noise level and reliability. Sears.com, BestBuy.com and HomeDepot.com are all great places to check for user reviews on a given washing machine.In January 2007, the U.S. Department of Energy phased in tougher efficiency requirements for washing machines. New washers are required to use 21% less energy. While that seems great in concept, the end result has been dirtier laundry. Consumer Reports has the most balanced information on the effects of these requirements. For many conventional top-loading washing machines, models must now use less water and lower wash temperatures, which can affect performance. Although we found some heated debate on this topic, Consumer Reports is the only publication that backs up its opinions with product testing.

We found many websites that rate washing machines based purely on efficiency, but with no performance testing. These include the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy (ACEEE), EnergyStar.gov and the Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE). All of these websites have good explanations of technology and related articles despite the lack of performance testing

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AND many more useful sites:

www.saveenergy.about.com/od/energyefficientappliances/p/eneffwashingmac.htm

www.staber.com

www.ecobusinesslinks.com/appliances_energy_efficient.htm

www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/consumer/alerts/alt070.shtm 

www.veggierevolution.blogspot.com/2008/07/energyefficient-and-water-saving.htm

www.ehow.com/how_2140467_buy-energyefficientwashingmachine.html

www.thedailygreen.com/green-homes/latest/green-remodeling-laundry-rooms-460212

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Energy Efficient Clothes Dryer – Well there is one but it makes too much sense

Ok so you probably know what I am going to say so don’t rush me. Here is the conventional wisdom:

 http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/appliances/dryers.html

Unlike most other types of appliances, clothes dryers don’t vary much in the amount of energy used from model to model. That’s why clothes dryers are not required to display EnergyGuide labels. They’re also not listed in the ENERGY STAR®’s database.

But that doesn’t mean that the amount of energy used by clothes dryers isn’t important. A dryer is typically the second-biggest electricity-using appliance after the refrigerator, costing about $85 to operate annually.

Over its expected lifetime of 18 years, the average clothes dryer will cost you approximately $1,530 to operate.

Right now, all dryers on the market work the same – they tumble clothes through heated air to remove moisture. Engineers are working to develop dryers that use microwaves to dry clothes, but they’re not yet being sold. (One problem still to be overcome is metal rivets and metal zippers, which don’t microwave well.)

Electric vs Gas

All dryers use a small electric motor to turn a large drum that tumbles the clothes placed inside it. All of them have an electric fan, which distributes heated air. There are however, two ways to create the heat needed to efficiently dry clothes – using either gas or electricity.

Electric dryers use heating coils to supply heat. Most electric dryers operate on 240-volt current, twice the strength of ordinary household current. If your laundry area is not equipped with a 240-volt outlet, you must have one installed.

Gas dryers use a gas burner to create heat, but otherwise they operate the same as an electric dryer. Your laundry room must have a gas hookup, with proper connections and safe venting of the gas’s exhaust, in addition to an electrical outlet.

The connections you have in your laundry room will probably dictate which style you use. If you have both gas and 240-volt connections, consider that gas dryers cost more to begin with – approximately $50 more than the comparable electric model. But in most areas gas dryers will cost less to run over their lifetime. Generally speaking, the cost of electricity needed to dry a typical load of laundry is 30 to 40 cents, compared to 15 to 20 cents if you use gas.

The energy efficiency of a clothes dryer is measured by a term called the energy factor. It’s a rating somewhat similar to miles per gallon for a car – but in this case, the measure is pounds of clothing per kilowatt-hour of electricity. The minimum energy factor for a standard capacity electric dryer is 3.01. For gas dryers, the minimum energy factor is 2.67, and, yes, the rating for gas dryers is provided in kilowatt-hours, even though the primary source of fuel is natural gas.

 

Buying Smart

Consider these tips if you’re looking to buy an efficient clothes dryer:

  • Check for the highest energy factor number when comparing different models. Remember that there are two costs to an appliance – the initial purchase price, and the cost of operating that appliance over the many years you own it.
  • Know whether your laundry room has gas or electricity hookups. If you need to add a gas line and a vent to operate a gas dryer, you may spend more on adding the hookup than you’ll save with the cheaper operating cost of gas.
  • Look for a clothes dryer with a moisture sensor that automatically shuts off the machine when your clothes are dry. Not only does this save energy; it reduces wear and tear on clothes caused by over-drying.

The best dryers have moisture sensors in the drum for sensing dryness, while most only estimate dryness by sensing the temperature of the exhaust air. Compared with timed drying, you can save about 10 percent with a temperature sensing control, and 15 percent with a moisture sensing control.

  • Look for a dryer with a cycle that includes a cool-down period, sometimes known as a “perma-press” cycle. In the last few minutes of the cycle, cool air, rather than heated air, is blown through the tumbling clothes to complete the drying process.

It’s Your Money

Here are ways to cut the amount of energy and money you spend drying clothes:

  • Locate your dryer in a heated space. Putting it in a cold or damp basement or an unheated garage will make the dryer work harder and less efficiently.
  • Make sure your dryer is vented properly. If you vent the exhaust outside, use the straightest and shortest metal duct available. Flexible vinyl duct isn’t recommended because it restricts the airflow, can be crushed, and may not withstand high temperatures from the dryer.
  • Check the outside dryer exhaust vent periodically. If it doesn’t close tightly, replace it with one that does to keep the outside air from leaking in. This will reduce heating and cooling bills.
  • Clean the lint filter in the dryer after every load to improve air circulation. Regularly clean the lint from vent hoods.
  • Dry only full loads, as small loads are less economical; but do not overload the dryer.
  • When drying, separate your clothes and dry similar types of clothes together. Lightweight synthetics, for example, dry much more quickly than bath towels and natural fiber clothes.
  • Dry two or more loads in a row, taking advantage of the dryer’s retained heat.
  • Use the cool-down cycle (perma-press cycle) to allow the clothes to finish drying with the residual heat in the dryer.

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But the real solution is to not to use a machine to dry your clothes:

www.blog.solarhaven.org

clothsline.jpg

If it rains?:

 www.amazon.com

indoors.jpg

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Gas Stoves, Convection Ovens, Pressure Cookers or Solar Ovens? I myself like my Toaster Oven but there are other options

Unlike many appliances there does not seem to be any “lists” of the most efficient stoves. There does not seem to be any comparisons of stoves. Like one with a convection oven compared to a combo microwave convection oven. There is however a whole lotto’  advice:

http://energyhawk.com/cooking/cooking4.php

Choosing the Right

Appliance For the Job

You can save energy simply by getting in the habit of cooking with the most efficient appliance possible for the food you are preparing.

In general, the higher on the following list, the less energy the appliance will cost you:

    Microwave
    Slow Cookers (“crockpots”)
    Frying Pan
    Toaster Oven
    Gas Oven
    Electric Convection Oven
    Electric Oven

So, lets say you want to reheat some leftovers for lunch. You could pop it in your big, hulking oven, but it would be cheaper to use the toaster oven. It would be cheapest to heat it in the microwave. But be reasonable. You’re not going to make pancakes in your crockpot, so fire up that electric frying pan with impunity. And I know the Thanksgiving turkey won’t fit in most toaster ovens.

These energy savings are not something to sneeze at. For example, using a microwave will reduce your energy consumption by about two-thirds compared to using a regular oven.

Perhaps the greatest innovation of the ’70’s was a great appliance to cook soups and stews that need to simmer for a long time. Yes, I’m talking about the crockpot. (Points off for those of you who guessed Leisure Suits were the discovery.)

Finally, you know how Asian cuisines always emphasize steaming vegetables instead of boiling them? You use a lot less energy steaming vegetables over a little bit of water compared to boiling them in a whole pot of water (some of us think they taste better that way, too). Or try microwaving them in a covered bowl with a little water in the bottom, to get the same effect using less time and less energy.

 http://www.eartheasy.com/live_energyeffic_appl.htm

Stoves

  • Use the burner which is the closest match to pot size. Heat is lost and energy is wasted if burner size is larger than pot size.
  • Use lids on pots and pans so you can cook at lower settings.
  • Keep drip pans under conventional coil burners clean. Don’t line drip pans with aluminum foil – they can reflect too much heat and damage the elements.
  • Only preheat when baking.
  • Check your oven temperature. Use a separate oven thermometer to ensure your oven control is accurate.
  • Make sure the oven door seal is tight. Avoid opening oven door while baking – each time the door is opened, about 20% of the inside heat is lost.
  • Turn oven off a few minutes before food is ready, and let oven heat finish the job.
  • Gas stoves: electronic ignition (piezo) will use about 40% less gas than a pilot light.
  • Pilot light and burner flame on gas stoves should be blue. If flame is yellow, ports need to be unclogged or adjusted. Ports can be cleared with pipe cleaners.
  • Use the microwave. They use only 1/3 to 1/2 as much energy as conventional stoves.
  • Induction cooktops use 90% of the energy produced compared to only 55% for a gas burner and 65% for traditional electric ranges. 
  • Sun (Solar) ovens are the most energy-efficient cooking appliance, as they require no fuel of any kind to cook, yet reach temperatures of 360° – 400°. 
  • Hybrid solar ovens have all the benefits of a solar oven, with the added convenience of an energy-efficient electric backup for use when sun power is not available. When used in ‘electric’ mode, these units use 75% less energy than conventional electric range.   
  •  :}

    This one is brand spanking new:

     http://www.eartheasy.com/article_induction_cooking.htm

    Induction Cooking
      A revolution in home cooking

    Induction cooking uses 90% of the energy produced compared to only 55% for a gas burner and 65% for traditional electric ranges.

    Cooking food at home may have just gotten safer and easier, thanks to the help of an induction cooktop that controls and intensifies heat using electromagnetism. However, this is no new phenomenon. Induction cooking has been around for decades but until recently never made it past a restaurant’s kitchen.

    How does it work?
    Traditional electric cooktops use some form of electric resistance to create heat, which is transferred to the saucepan and its contents. Induction cooking is based on magnetic fields: each ‘element’ (an induction coil) generates a magnetic field that induces heat in steel cookware placed on top of it. In essence, the pot becomes the element that cooks the food, so the cooktop surface doesn’t get as hot as other cooktops. Induction cooktops have the same instant control as gas and are the fastest of all cooktop types to heat and cook food.

    The only stipulations include:
    • pots and pans must be made of steel, cast iron or other combinations of metals that will react with the magnetic field.
    • a kitchen must be wired for 220 volts (which is not likely if you are using gas).
    What’s more, the induction cooktop is more energy efficient:
    • Induction cooking uses 90% of the energy produced compared to only 55% for a gas burner and 65% for traditional electric ranges.
    • Induction provides extremely fast boil and re-boil, over 50% faster than gas or electric
    The surface of the cooktop does not heat up, so overflows and spills do not stick. The cooking surface stays cool even during the cooking cycle.

    The Magnetic Factor
    Induction cooking uses the transfer of magnetic energy (magnetic coils) — rather than flames or electric elements — to generate heat. Within this magnetic field, molecules in the pan jumble around at very high frequencies; the friction creates instant heat.
    If consumers are curious if the pans they already own are capable of induction cooking, all they have to do is hold a magnet to the bottom of the pan. If the magnet sticks, the pan will work with induction.

    Cleaning
    Induction cooktops are easy to clean. They have a continuous surface with no dirt traps, and the controls are touch-sensitive, so there are no knobs to clean around. Because the surface doesn’t get as hot as other electric cooktops, most spillages won’t bake on, although you do have to be careful with sugar because it can still pit the surface. On the downside, some models don’t have a lip around the edge to contain spills, and you may have to buy a special cream to keep it streak-free.

    Cost
    Induction cooktops are expensive. Typical price: Twin-element: around $1700; two radiant ceramic and two induction elements (as one unit): $1800–$2500; four induction elements: $3000–$4000+.

     :}

    Then there are some unconventional approaches:  

    http://www.lostvalley.org/haybox1.html :} THIS ONES AS OLD AS THE HILLS:

    Haybox cooking (also called retained-heat cooking) is an age-old method that can be used to conserve energy not only during times of crisis, but anytime. Depending on the food item and amount cooked, the use of a haybox or insulated cooker saves between 20% and 80% of the energy normally needed to cook a food. The longer an item usually takes on a stovetop, the more fuel is saved. For example, with a haybox, five pots of long-cooking dry beans will use the same amount of fuel to cook to completion as just one pot cooked without a haybox.

    The principle of retained-heat cooking is simple. In conventional cooking, any heat applied to the pot after it reaches boiling temperature is merely replacing heat lost to the air by the pot. In haybox cooking, food is brought to a boil, simmered for a few minutes depending on the particle size (5 minutes for rice or other grains, 15 minutes for large dry beans or whole potatoes), then put into the haybox to continue cooking. Since the insulated cooker prevents most of the heat in the food from escaping into the environment, no additional energy is needed to complete the cooking process. The hayboxed food normally cooks within one to two times the normal stovetop cooking time. It can be left in the haybox until ready to serve, and stays hot for hours. “Timing” is much less important than in stovetop cooking: stick a pot of rice, beans, or stew in at lunch time, and it will be ready when you are, and steaming hot, at dinner time.

    The haybox itself is any kind of insulated container that can withstand cooking temperatures and fits relatively snugly around the pot. Hayboxes have been made using hay, straw, wool, feathers, cotton, rice hulls, cardboard, aluminum foil, newspaper, fiberglass, fur, rigid foam, and/or other suitable materials as insulation. The insulation is placed between the rigid walls of a box, within a double bag of material, or lining a hole in the ground. “Instant hayboxes” have been created by wrapping a sleeping bag, blankets, and/or pillows around a pot. The most effective insulating materials create many separate pockets of air, which slow down the movement of heat. 2 to 4 inches of thickness (depending on the material) are necessary for good insulation. Some materials, such as aluminum foil or mylar, actually reflect heat back toward the pot. Important characteristics of any insulating material incorporated into a haybox include:

    • It must withstand cooking temperatures (up to 212 degrees F or 100 degrees C) without melting.
    • It does not release toxic fumes (any kind of foam insulation needs to be covered with aluminum foil or mylar) or dangerous fibers (fiberglass also needs to be covered).
    • It can be fashioned to be as snug-fitting as possible around the pot. A little pot in a big box will not cook as effectively; it’s better to wrap pillows, towels, or blankets around it to fill up the space.
    • It can be made to form a relatively tight seal, so that heat does not escape from the cooking cavity. Since hot air rises, a container designed to open at the base rather than the top will retain more heat.
    • It is dry, and can be kept dry, since wet materials don’t insulate as well. An inner layer of aluminum foil or mylar helps keep cooking moisture from entering the walls of the box. Mylar, which can be salvaged from used food storage containers, balloons, etc., tends to be a more durable inner layer than aluminum foil.

    Cooking containers, too, should have tight-fitting lids, to prevent the escape of heat and moisture.

    Since water is not lost in haybox cooking the way it is during extended stovetop simmering, the amount of water used to cook grains and beans is normally reduced by one-quarter. Instead of adding 2 cups of water per cup of dry rice, try adding 1 1/2. Also, the larger the amount cooked, the more effective haybox cooking is, since a full pot has more mass and therefore more heat storage capacity than a half-full pot. Haybox cooking is ideally suited for a family or large group, or anytime there’s a reason to cook in quantity. If you’re cooking alone, try cooking full pots of food using a haybox, then reheating small portions for individual meals–this too can conserve fuel.

    Retained-heat cooking has many other advantages in addition to energy and water conservation. As mentioned, it makes “timing” less critical, since it keeps meals hot until serving time. Once the initial boil-and-short-simmer stage is past, it also eliminates the danger of burning the food on the bottom of the pot (the sad fate of too many pots of grains, beans, or other foods left simmering too long without stirring on the stove). Hayboxed food can actually be better for you, and tastier, than food prepared exclusively on a stovetop, because most of the cooking takes place in the 180 degrees F to 212 degrees F range, rather than at a constant 212 degrees F (lower temperatures preserve more flavor and nutrients, as they also do in crockpot cooking and solar cooking).

     http://idreamofgreenie.blogspot.com/2008/01/fast-energy-efficient-cooking.html

    Fast, Energy Efficient Cooking

    No, it’s not a campfire or a blow torch.

    I have a childhood memory of my mother making our dinner using a pressure cooker. It had a small weight on top of it that would bobble around when it reached full steam. I have to admit, it seemed a little intimidating, knowing that if you touched it the wrong way, it might explode all over the kitchen.

    Fast forward to adult life. One of my holiday gifts was a pressure cooker. ( So much for jewelry and clothes.) Oh no, I thought. I’m not using that thing. It’s old fashioned, it’s passe, and most importantly, that thing is dangerous!

    After a few years, I decided to open the box. I read the instructions. I inspected the pot. Hmmm…no more bobble weight on the top. The new models seemed pretty much idiot proof now. So I gave it a try, with careful supervision. I sauteed a little onion, carrots and celery and threw in some chicken parts, seasoning and water. I sealed it up and turned on the heat. I sat there, staring at the thing to make sure it didn’t explode. It didn’t, naturally. And in 15 minutes, I had made chicken soup. I was amazed. I will try this again, I thought. And I did. Again and again. Now I am a huge proponent of pressure cookers. I use it all the time, and my family is amazed at what comes out of there so quickly. Pot roast, chicken, our lamb and french bean stew…in the time you would boil pasta!

    At some recent family gatherings, the ladies would congregate and swap stories, one of which was about their beloved crock pot. In only 8 hours, they would come home to a nice hot meal. That’s all good but 8 hours? Not only is the pressure cooker faster, but it uses a heck of a lot less energy. 8 hours vs. 15 minutes. I mentioned this to the ladies. And they say,”Oh yeah, but I’m afraid of it.” Aren’t we all? Hell, if we can give birth, this is a cakewalk.

    There are several good ones on the market. If you have an interest in an energy efficient way to cook your family a nice, healthy meal, this one is my choice.

    Fagor Pressure Cookers
    . This is a great company out of Spain that makes good quality products. Go to www.fagorpressurecookers.com.

    :}

    http://www.sunoven.com/?gclid=CPiYncvZv5QCFQH0IgodrnQAUQ

    Then

    http://www.solarcookers.org/basics/how.html

    There

     http://solarcooking.org/

    Is

    http://www.cookwiththesun.com/

    The Sun:

    http://www.knowledgehound.com/topics/solarcoo.htm

     Cookin’ with Sunshine

    Ed Eaton

    In just a few days, the sun showers us with energy equal to all the
    earth’s fossil fuels.  Consider our environment and its condition;
    using solar energy seems only logical.  One way to use the sun is
    to cook with the solar energy.  We can bake, fry, steam, or even
    solarque our favorite dish right in our own backyard.

    Brief History
    Successful solar cookers were reported in Europe and India as early
    as the 18th century.  The increased use of glass during that period
    helped inventors to trap heat & hot air.  In 1870, Augustine Mouchot
    invented a fairly portable oven for the French Foreign Legion.  It
    could bake a pound of bread in 45 minutes or 2 pounds of potatoes
    in one hour.

    Around the same time, W. A. Adams developed an eight-sided mirrored
    oven which reflected light through a glass cone located in the center
    of the oven.  This oven could cook a 12 pound turkey in 4 to 5 hours. 
    This is still a popular design today.  We actually use a large model,
    very similar to Adam’s oven.  In this oven we can cook 60 pounds
    of food at a time

    Present Times
    Interest in solar energy seems to fluctuate along with the price
    of fuels (oil in particular).  We feel a new awareness is blooming. 
    It is due to the ever growing concerns about OUR planet EARTH and
    our desire to help
    Earth out!  Solar cooking enables us to contribute in a small, simple
    way.

    :}

    :}

    Solar Water Heaters – Why not it’s free

    Not the system the Sun. There are so many Solar Water Heaters available now that it is embarressing. Anyone who owns their own home and doesn’t install one is an Energy Hog. Tankless water heater owners are given a pass.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_hot_water

    Solar hot water

     Solar Hot Water refers to water heated by solar energy. Solar heating systems are generally composed of solar thermal collectors, a fluid system to move the heat from the collector to its point of usage, and a reservoir or tank for heat storage and subsequent use. The systems may be used to heat water for home or business use, for swimming pools, underfloor heating or as an energy input for space heating and cooling and industrial applications.

    In many climates, a solar heating system can provide a very high percentage (50% to 75%) of domestic hot water energy. In many northern European countries, combined hot water and space heating systems (solar combisystems) are used to provide 15 to 25% of home heating energy.

    In the southern regions of Africa like Zimbabwe, solar water heaters have been gaining popularity, thanks to the Austrian and other EU funded projects that are promoting more environmentally friendly water heating solutions.

    Residential solar thermal installations can be subdivided into two kinds of systems: compact and pumped systems. Both typically include an auxiliary energy source (electric heating element or connection to a gas or fuel oil central heating system) that is activated when the water in the tank falls below a minimum temperature setting such as 50 °C. Hence, hot water is always available. The combination of solar hot water heating and using the back-up heat from a wood stove chimney to heat water[2] can enable a hot water system to work all year round in northern climates without the supplemental heat requirement of a solar hot water system being met with fossil fuels or electricity.

    Evacuated tube collector

    Evacuated tube collectors are made of a series of modular tubes, mounted in parallel, whose number can be added to or reduced as hot water delivery needs change. This type of collector consists of rows of parallel transparent glass tubes, each of which contains an absorber tube (in place of the absorber plate to which metal tubes are attached in a flat-plate collector). The tubes are covered with a special light-modulating coating. In an evacuated tube collector, sunlight passing through an outer glass tube heats the absorber tube contained within it. The absorber can either consist of copper (glass-metal) or specially-coated glass tubing (glass-glass). The glass-metal evacuated tubes are typically sealed at the manifold end, and the absorber is actually sealed in the vacuum, thus the fact that the absorber and heat pipe are dissimilar metals creates no corrosion problems. The better quality systems use foam insulation in the manifold. low iron glass is used in the higher quality evacuated tubes manufacture.

    Lower quality evacuated tube systems use the glass coated absorber. Due to the extreme temperature difference of the glass under stagnation temperatures, the glass sometimes shatters. The glass is a lower quality boron silicate material and the aluminum absorber and copper heat pipe are slid down inside the open top end of the tube. Moisture entering the manifold around the sheet metal casing is eventually absorbed by the glass fibre insulation and then finds its way down into the tubes. This leads to corrosion at the absorber/heat pipe interface area, also freeze ruptures of the tube itself if the tube fills sufficiently with water.

    Two types of tube collectors are distinguished by their heat transfer method: the simplest pumps a heat transfer fluid (water or antifreeze) through a U-shaped copper tube placed in each of the glass collector tubes. The second type uses a sealed heat pipe that contains a liquid that vapourises as it is heated. The vapour rises to a heat-transfer bulb that is positioned outside the collector tube in a pipe through which a second heat transfer liquid (the water or antifreeze) is pumped. For both types, the heated liquid then circulates through a heat exchanger and gives off its heat to water that is stored in a storage tank (which itself may be kept warm partially by sunlight). Evacuated tube collectors heat to higher temperatures, with some models providing considerably more solar yield per square metre than flat panels. However, they are more expensive and fragile than flat panels. The high stagnation temperatures can cause antifreeze to break down, so careful consideration must be used if selecting this type of system in temperate climates.

    For a given absorber area, evacuated tubes can maintain their efficiency over a wide range of ambient temperatures and heating requirements. The absorber area only occupied about 50% of the collector panel on early designs, however this has changed as the technology has advanced to maximize the absorption area. In extremely hot climates, flat-plate collectors will generally be a more cost-effective solution than evacuated tubes. When employed in arrays of 20 to 30 or more, the efficient but costly evacuated tube collectors have net benefit in winter and also give real advantage in the summer months. They are well suited to extremely cold ambient temperatures and work well in situations of consistently low-light. They are also used in industrial applications, where high water temperatures or steam need to be generated. Properly designed evacuated tubes have a life expectancy of over 25 years which greatly adds to their value.

    200px-evacuated_tube_collector.gif

    Or you could make your own:

    www.motherearthnews.com/Renewable-Energy/1979-09-01/A-Homemade-SolarWaterHeater.asp

    This is what the Chinese buy:

     http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/cninterma/product-detailxoHJaYFbJrhW/China-Solar-Collector-SCS-.html

    Or you could Pay Alot for it:

    http://solarroofs.com/

    There is a lot out there:

     www.firemountainsolar.com/solarhotwater.html

    www.honglesolar.com/SolarWaterHeater.htm

    www.sunheat.com

    http://talensun.com/procuct.asp

    www.toolbase.org/Technology-Inventory/Plumbing/solarwaterheaters

    www.builditsolar.com/Projects/WaterHeating/water_heating.htm

    www.solarpanelsplus.com

    www.solarenergy.com

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