Category Archives: residential energy efficiency

Happy Labor Day Everyone! Remember when?

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I walked in the Labor Day Parade today and it brought back memories of the times when we did not try to burn up this planet and squandered every energy resource we have.

. Remember when we used to walk to go to the store to get groceries?

. Remember when we used to walk to church. It was great because we met people along the way who were going to the same church or different church and could talk?

. Remember when we made things ourselves and everyone had a job if they wanted one?

. Remember when kids played outside until dark or later?

. Remember when we threw the windows open in the spring and fall. The air never tasted so good?

. Remember when we had a snow storm every year before Thanksgiving?

. Remember when you could get cars that went furhter than 30 miles to the gallon?

. Remember when it was safe to swim in the creeks and streams?

. Remember when there were butchers in every town?

We have taken a wrong turn and need to change.

I Skipped The “Other Electronics” Category When Discussing The Residential Market

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I skipped over the rest of the electronic world for a number of reasons when I was talking about the residential market in this blog partly because it is not a huge savings for my 2 person adult household. So let me say this right up front that this post is kinda about people who leave the lights on. You know who you are and people under 21 who don’t give a shit. A quick caution here, if you unplug your stuff when you are not using it you will have to reprogram it! Still, people travel and if you are leaving your place even for a couple of days, unplugging your stuff is a very good idea. We have been stuck on stupid in this country for 30 years, thanks to Richard Nixon, Ronald Reagan and George Bushes. So it’s time to get smart.

Besides, this article was sent to me by our Website Genius and so who am I to anger the Gods.

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/08/06/technology/06green.html?_r=2&oref=slogin&oref=slogin

 

An Energy Diet for Power-Hungry Household PCs

By STEVE LOHR

Published: August 6, 2008

In its drive to go green, the technology industry has so far focused mainly on big targets like corporations and especially computer data centers, the power-hungry computing engine rooms of the Internet economy.

Next come the hundreds of millions of desktop and laptop personal computers in households worldwide.

Microsoft, the nonprofit Climate Savers Computing Initiative and a start-up called Verdiem are combining to put a spotlight on the energy-saving opportunity in PCs, and distributing a free software tool to consumers to help them do it.

The potential savings in both dollars and pollution is huge, analysts say, when the estimated one billion PCs in use globally are taken into account. The research firm Gartner estimates that 40 percent of all carbon dioxide emissions resulting from information technology and telecommunications are attributable to PCs. Data center computers account for 23 percent, and the rest is attributable to printers and telecommunications equipment.

“If you are going to tackle climate change and curb energy use, you have to deal with consumer devices like PCs,” said Andrew Fanara, a product development expert in the Environmental Protection Agency’s Energy Star program, which promotes energy-efficient products and practices.

For more than a decade, the federal Energy Star program has developed voluntary power-management standards for PCs, and suppliers like Intel and Microsoft have steadily improved the energy efficiency of their chips and software. But Mr. Fanara estimated that less than half of PCs met those standards, in part because more energy-efficient hardware adds slightly to production costs.

“There are large potential savings beyond what Energy Star can do,” he said.

The free software, called Edison, is a consumer version of the PC energy-saving software sold to corporate customers by Verdiem, which is financed by Kleiner Perkins Caufield & Byers, a leading venture capital firm and an aggressive investor in green technologies, and other venture investors.

Verdiem, based in Seattle, has 180 corporate and government customers, including Hewlett-Packard, which bundles Verdiem’s Surveyor program on its desktop PCs sold to corporations. Though he will not disclose sales figures, the company’s chief executive, Kevin Klustner, says revenue should triple this year.

There are other free tools for calculating and managing PC power consumption, including the E.P.A.’s EZ Wizard, CO2 Saver and a Google energy-saving gadget. But Edison allows the user more flexibility, especially in making the settings as stringent as they want, analysts say.

If a user sets the software to put the machine in a “deep sleep” mode after a few minutes of not hitting a keystroke, the hard drive powers down and the PC sips just 5 percent of its normal energy consumption.

That kind of energy diet is far from standard practice in homes and offices. Half of all electricity consumed by a standard PC is wasted, according to environmental and industry studies.

Household electricity bills could also be trimmed by $20 to $95 a year for each PC, depending on local power costs and the kind of PCs in use, said Mr. Klustner. “What we’re trying to do is raise the visibility of the power consumption problem on the PC desktop and really bring power management to the masses,” he said.

The Climate Savers group, which includes major technology companies and environmental groups, has set a goal of reducing carbon dioxide emissions from computers by 54 million tons by 2010. That is the equivalent of the yearly pollution from 11 million cars. The goal includes data center computers and PCs, and about half of all PCs are consumer machines.

“This kind of energy-saving technology for consumers is a key ingredient in moving toward that goal,” said Rob Bernard, chief environmental strategist for Microsoft.

The companies said that the Edison software would be available to download on Wednesday from the Web sites of Verdiem (verdiem.com), Microsoft (microsoft.com/environment), and Climate Savers (climatesaverscomputing.org).

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Here is aceeeeeeeeeeeee oh sorry why can’t they shorten it to ACE cubed or something?:

http://www.aceee.org/consumerguide/electronics.htm

 Consumer Guide to Home Energy Savings: Condensed Online Version

 Home Electronics

The energy use of electronic equipment often goes unnoticed. But as it turns out, an estimated 10% to 15% of all electricity used in American homes can be attributed to the buzz of electronic devices. The vast majority is consumed by home entertainment systems and home office equipment. But small energy users, including portable devices with battery chargers, make up a significant share—not because they use a lot of energy individually, but because of their sheer numbers.

Understanding Power Modes

To minimize the energy used by home electronics, it is helpful to understand the true meaning of “on” and “off” as applied to electronics. It’s rarely that simple! Unlike a light switch that turns a lamp or fixture on or off, many electronics products operate in two, three, or even four modes, and even continue to draw power when apparently turned off.

Mode Definition Examples
Active
(In-Use)		 Appliance is performing its primary function. TV displays picture and/or sound.
VCR records or plays back tape.
Printer prints document.
Active standby Appliance ready for use, but not performing primary function.
Appears on to consumer.		 DVD player on but not playing.
Cordless appliance charging.
Passive standby Appliance is off/standby.
Appears off to consumer, but can be activated by remote control OR is performing peripheral function.		 Microwave not in use, but clock is on.
CD player off, but can be turned on with remote control.
Off Applicance is turned off and no function is being performed.Consumer cannot activatewith remote control. Computer speakers are off,
but plugged in.
TV is not functioning and cannot be turned on with remote.

Below is a table of common electronic equipment and the average energy used in each mode and per year (in order from most energy-intensive to least)

Product

Passive Standby or Off (watts)

Active Standby
(watts)

Active
(watts)

Average Annual Energy Use (kWh)

Home Entertainment
Plasma TV (<40″)

3

–

246

441
DVR/TiVo

37

37

37

363
Digital Cable

26

26

26

239
Satellite Cable

12

11

16

124
CRT TV (<40″)

1

–

73

123
LCD TV (<40″)

3

–

70

77
Video Game Console

1

–

24

16
DVD

1

5

11

13
Home Office
Desktop Computer

4

17

68

255
Laptop Computer

1

3

22

83
CRT Monitor

2

3

70

82
LCD Monitor

1

2

27

70
Computer Speakers

2

–

7

20
Modem

5

–

6

50
Wireless Router

2

–

6

48
USB Hub

1

–

3

18
Printer

2

3

9

15
Fax

4

4

4

26
Mutli-Function Printer/Scanner/Copier

6

9

15

55
Rechargeable Devices
Power Tool

4

–

34

37
Hand-Held Vacuum

3

–

3

29
Cordless Phone

2

3

5

26
Electric Toothbrush

2

–

4

14
Shaver

1

–

1

11
MP3 Player

1

–

1

6
Cell Phone

0

1

3

3
Digital Camera

0

–

2

3

Source: ECOS Consulting, 2006: Final Field Research Report for the California Energy Commission

Top

Reducing Energy Use

There are several steps you can take now to minimize the energy used by the electronics in your home:

  • Unplug It. The simplest and most obvious way to eliminate power losses is to unplug products when not in use. Search the wall sockets in your house for hidden un-connected chargers and other devices that don’t need to be plugged in. When you detach your cell phone or similar device from its charger, unplug the charger too.
  • Use a Power Strip. Plug home electronics and office equipment into a single power strip with an on/off switch. This will allow you to turn off all power to the devices in one easy step. But remember to keep your power strip in an easy-to-reach location! Once the power strip is turned off, no power will be delivered to the outlets, thereby eliminating power wasted by power supplies. One caveat: home entertainment equipment such as TVs, cable and satellite boxes, and DVRs will need to be reprogrammed or given time to reboot and download information when turned back on. You may want to plug these devices into a separate strip and only turn them off when you plan to be away for more than a few days.
  • Use a Power Meter. Use a power meter to find your leading sources of energy consumption to help you to prioritize which products to unplug or to replace. Plug these devices in between a given appliance and the wall socket to see how much electricity it is using. Two models to look for are the Kill A Watt™ and the Watts Up? Pro Power Meter. For an even more sophisticated, big-picture look at your home’s real-time electricity use, you might also consider purchasing a power use monitor. These devices are programmed to read information from your electric meter and communicate the real-time changes in use through an easy-to-read screen. Some good monitors to look for are The Energy Detective (TED), the Power Cost Monitor, and the Cent-A-Meter.

Top

Buying New Electronics

Home Entertainment Equipment

  • Look for the ENERGY STAR when purchasing a new TV, DVD Player, VCR, audio system, or digital-to-analog converter box. The ENERGY STAR label ensures low standby power use for these appliances — in most cases only 1 watt or less.
  • As of January, 2008, the ENERGY STAR label for TVs will indicate low active-mode power use as well (when the TV is actually on). Under 40 inches, choose a TV with an LCD screen. The average plasma TV uses more energy per year than a modern refrigerator. We do not recommend purchasing any TV with a screen greater than 40 inches at this time.
  • About DTAs and the Switch to Digital Broadcasting
    As of February, 2009, the U.S. will shift to digital-only TV broadcasts (to learn more, go here). Consumers who do not subscribe to cable or satellite services will need a digital TV converter box (DTA) to view programming on their analog TVs.These boxes should become widely available on the market by mid- to late-2008. If you have purchased a digital TV, you will not need a DTA for that TV set.

Simple DTAs are expected to cost around $50.The National Telecommunications and Information Administration will offer consumers coupons to offset the cost of DTAs. Each household is eligible for two $40 coupons. DTAs eligible for the coupon program must meet energy efficiency specifications including a maximum standby power level and automatic power down after 4 hours of inactivity.Additional ENERGY STAR requirements set maximum active power levels for DTAs.To minimize your energy use, look for ENERGY STAR-labeled DTAs if you need to purchase one for your home.

Computers and Home Office Equipment

  • Look for the ENERGY STAR label on any new PCs, printers, faxes, and copiers. Current specifications set maximum power levels for sleep mode power consumption (and, in the case of monitors, active mode power) as well as requirements for power management features.

External Power Supplies

  • Electronic products run on low-voltage direct current (DC) and therefore require power supplies to transform the 120-volt alternating current (AC) supplied at the power outlet. Some larger products, like TVs, stereos and set-top boxes, incorporate the power supply into the body of the product. Others use external power supplies, the familiar “wall packs” that increasingly compete for space in our outlets and power strips. These power supplies consume electricity as long as they are connected to a power outlet, whether or not the product is on or off, and even if it is disconnected! You’ll know a wall pack is using energy when it has been plugged in for a while and it is warm to the touch.
  • A number of manufacturers now offer high-efficiency power supplies (typically “switch-mode” power supplies) and a growing number of products are sold with these improved devices. The best of these devices boast efficiency levels of more than 90%, whereas the worst performers are only 20-40% efficient (meaning they waste more than half of the electricity that passes through them!).
  • High efficiency power supplies are much smaller and lighter than the wall-pack power supplies they replace, saving room under your desk and in your briefcase. ENERGY STAR-qualified power supplies are now available and are being sold with a growing number of electronics products. For more information, check out EfficientPowerSupplies

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So When You Leave The Dorm Room! To go home and stay with Mommy and Daddy for Christmas, Thanksgiving or Easter unplug your stuff! When you go to Cancun for vacation or to participate in a girls gone wild film shoot. UnPlUg YouR sTuFf! 

:}

Solar Power Goes Main Stream – I mean Main Street

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Amanda Beals has been trying to get me to post some of Main Streets “Environmental Coverage” for a while now. Here one is but Solar Jackets by Designer People? Whoa 

:}

http://mainstreet.com/5-solar-solutions

5 Solar Solutions

By Sean Leviashvili (07/28/08)

The Greatest Green Gadgets Ever

Some companies are struggling to go green, but rumor has it Toyota (TM) is going greener.

Japanese business paper the Nikkei reported earlier this month that the company plans to install solar panels on the redesigned Prius in 2009. The solar panels will provide two to five kilowatts of electricity to power utilities like air conditioners and radios.

Sales for the Prius are booming, especially in light of rising gas prices and the growing go-green trend. But if you aren’t ready to give up your gas guzzler, or simply can’t afford a $25,000 car, there are other ways you can get in on the solar craze.

Take a Look!

It’s in the Bag:

Chargers:
With an internal rechargeable battery, the Solio Classic charger acts as a hybrid giving you the option to connect to a home outlet or accept energy from the sun. The Solio can charge multiple gadgets including an iPod (AAPL), cell phone or digital camera. Check out the range of models ($79.95-169.95) at solio.com. Depending on the amount of sunlight, the Solio charger is capable of charging your gadget in under two hours.

Bags:
To charge on the go, invest in a solar backpack or messenger bag. According to Krissie Nagy, a sales and marketing representative from Voltaic Systems, an hour of direct sunlight will yield 1.5 hours of full cell phone use, or 3 hours of iPod play. Voltaic bags come with eleven different adaptors, including the latest Samsung charger, along with a car charger socket that covers adaptors not included.

Different bags have different charging potentials, and the devices you plan on charging should influence your purchasing decision. Charging a laptop, for example, is only possible in bags yielding at least 17 watts of electricity, such as the Voltaic Generator, available at voltaicsystems.com for $599.

Solar Jackets:
The Ermenegildo Zegna designed solar powered jacket charges devices right in your pocket. But this luxury doesn’t come cheap. The price: $995. According to the company’s official website, www.zegna.com, the jacket uses solar cells on the detachable neoprene collar, and powers devices at 5 or 6 volts, so it can charge your cell phone or iPod, but nothing larger.

AT HOME

Solar Water Heating:
Installing a solar water heating system costs between $5,000 and $8,000, says Gary Trainer, professional engineer for Solarplex in San Antonio, Texas. The installation process requires solar panels and a separate water tank, which works with anti-freeze and your home’s original water tank to produce hot water. The system, Trainer says, can cover 60 to 80% of your total water heating needs. And, while the initial purchase is costly, the long-term payoff is substantial. “After about eight years, you’ll really see the value in the system,” Trainer says. “At that point, the system will basically pay for itself.”

Solar Pool Heating:
With solar pool heating, you can extend your swim season by months. Depending on the size of your pool, buying and installing a solar pool-heating system costs anywhere from $2,000 to $10,000. According to the eere.gov, a branch of the Department of Energy’s website that focuses on energy efficiency and renewable energy, the cost of heating your pool with solar power runs from $7 to $12 per square foot.

Solar pool heating can save hundreds of dollars each year, and according to Trainer, this system has the greatest payoff of all solar heating systems. “The most expensive installment is the conventional grid type stuff, where you use solar power to reduce the energy your in-house utilities use,” Trainer admits. “But it’s not difficult to install a [solar] heating system for your pool for three or five thousand dollars, and the payout is great, it’s about two to four years.”

Solar heating systems all require solar panels (amount will vary based on the system), and a prior consultation to decide if solar power is right for you.

“There are certain conditions where it is just impractical,” Trainer says. “Trees are usually the number one reason, along with space limitation, and limited access to the sun.”

For more information on how to incorporate solar energy into your life, log on to The Department of Energy’s official website.



 

Energy Efficient Dishwasher – The secret is they use less water

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As with the Clothes Washer, the Dish Washer uses hot water and that is the big cost. Our house is super insulated and the water is solar heated so we save a lot more money then the normal home owner. The experts say:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=dishwash.pr_dishwashers

 Dishwashers

Replacing a dishwasher manufactured before 1994 with an ENERGY STAR qualified dishwasher can save you more than $30 a year in utility costs.

 Earning the ENERGY STAR means a product meets strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the US Environmental Protection Agency and the US Department of Energy.

  • ENERGY STAR qualified dishwashers use at least 41 percent less energy than the federal minimum standard for energy consumption.
  • ENERGY STAR qualified dishwashers use much less water than conventional models. Saving water helps protect our nation’s water supplies.
  • Because they use less hot water compared to new conventional models, an ENERGY STAR qualified dishwasher saves about $90 over its lifetime.

Remember, saving energy prevents pollution. By choosing ENERGY STAR, you are helping prevent global warming and promote cleaner air without sacrificing the product quality and performance you expect.

You may also be interested to know that you can save extra energy while washing dishes, whether with a standard or an ENERGY STAR model:

  • Run your dishwasher with a full load. Most of the energy used by a dishwasher goes to heat water. Since you can’t decrease the amount of water used per cycle, fill your dishwasher to get the most from the energy used to run it.
  • Avoid using the heat-dry, rinse-hold and pre-rinse features. Instead use your dishwasher’s air-dry option.

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More over: 

http://www.aceee.org/consumerguide/dishwashing.htm

To find the most efficient products, download a list of qualifying products from the ENERGY STAR Web site (link to excel file in the upper-right). Sort by “Size” and “Energy Factor” to see which meet our recommendations (below). You may need to also check product literature or with your utility for further specifications. For a quick search by manufacturer, here’s a direct link to the list in html.

When buying a new dishwasher, consider the following:

1. High Energy Factor
ACEEE recommends that you consider dishwashers that have an Energy Factor (EF) of at least 0.65, or an estimated energy use of less than 340 kWh/year. This is about 40% better than the federal standard. You can find which products meet this requirement on the showroom floor by looking on the yellow EnergyGuide label on each product.

Energy Factor measures the number of cycles that can be run with 1 kWh of electricity, and, unlike clothes washer efficiency ratings, does not take into account water use; although high-efficiency models are more likely to incorporate improvements to the spray arm, sump geometry, and/or pump design to reduce water requirements per cycle.

2. Low Water Use
To find the most water-efficient models, you must look beyond ENERGY STAR and EnergyGuide. Some ENERGY STAR models use half as much water as others, saving hundreds of gallons of water each year. Check the manufacturer’s literature or contact your local water utility. In some states, electric and water utilities offer rebates for the purchase of models that are exceptionally efficient.

3. Wash Cycle Options
Most dishwashers have several different wash cycle selections. The more options you have, the better you can tailor the energy and water use needed for a particular load. Look at the manufacturer’s literature for total water use with different cycles.Some dishwashers on the market today use “soil sensor” technology to automatically adjust water use depending on how dirty the dishes are in each load. There are highly-efficient dishwashers with and without this feature.4. Energy-Saving “No-Heat” Dry
An electric heating element is generally used to dry dishes at the end of the final rinse cycle, consuming about 7% of dishwasher energy use. Most new dishwashers offer an energy-saving no-heat drying feature. At the end of the rinse cycle, if the feature is selected, room air is circulated through the dishwasher by fans, rather than using an electric heating element to bake the dishes dry.

Energy Saving Tips

Whether you are buying a new dishwasher or using an existing one, you may be able to save a considerable amount of energy by changing the way you operate it.

  • Avoid Hand-Washing
    Studies are showing more and more that, when used to maximize energy-saving features, modern dishwashers can outperform all but the most frugal hand washers.
  • Scrape, Don’t Rinse
    Studies show that most people pre-rinse dishes before loading them into the dishwasher, even though dishwashers purchased within the last 5–10 years do a superb job of cleaning even heavily soiled dishes. If you find you must rinse dishes first, get in the habit of using cold water.
  • Follow Manufacturer Instructions
    Completely fill the racks to optimize water and energy use, but allow proper water circulation for adequate cleaning.
  • Wash Only Full Loads
    The dishwasher uses the same amount of water whether it’s half-full or completely full, so nothing will save more energy than waiting to run your dishwasher. If you find that it takes a day or two to get a full load, use the rinse and hold feature common on newer models. This will prevent build up of dried-on food while saving time and water compared to pre-rinsing each item. The rinse feature typically uses only 1 to 2 gallons of water.
  • Use Energy-Saving Cycle Options
    Pay attention to the cycle options on your dishwasher and select the cycle that requires the least amount of energy for the job. Use the no-heat air-dry feature on your dishwasher if it has one.
  • Turn Down the Water Heater Temperature
    Since the early 1990s, most dishwashers in the U.S. have been sold with built-in heaters to boost water temperature to 140–145°F, the temperature recommended by manufacturers for optimum dishwashing performance. The advantage to the booster heater is that you can turn down your water heater thermostat to 120°F (typically half-way between the “medium” and “low” settings

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AND The Winners Are:

http://products.pricerunner.com/results/query?q=energy+efficient+dishwashers

 

General Electric GLD4400NWW / GLD4400NBB / GLD4400NCC Built-in Dishwasher

This 24″ Built-In Dishwasher by GE, provides you with an array of useful features to ensure clean dishes, efficient use of your time, and a sleek design to compliment any kitchen decor.One specific feature highlight of the GLD4400N is the 6-Level…

$314.oo

 

 

 

Frigidaire FDB1502RGC Built-in Dishwasher

ENERGY STAR qualified appliance. Imagine efficient cleaning that saves both time and energy. The tall tub design of the ENERGY STAR qualified dishwasher can wash up to 14 five-piece place settings at once and the 5-level Precision Direct Water Delivery…

$310.00

 

 

Frigidaire FDB1502RGS Built-in Dishwasher

ENERGY STAR+ qualified appliance. Imagine efficient cleaning that saves both time and energy. The tall tub design of the ENERGY STAR+ qualified dishwasher can wash up to 14 five-piece place settings at once.

$289.00
 

Fagor LFA-65 IT Built-in Dishwasher

The AIS Fagor Dishwashers regulate consumption and troubleshoot for you. These dishwashers simplify your everyday chores and make the most efficient use of your appliances, allowing you to use water, energy and time according to your needs.

$799.00
 

General Electric GLD4650NCS Built-in Dishwasher

This 24″ Built-In Dishwasher by GE, provides you with an array of useful features to ensure clean dishes, efficient use of your time, and a sleek design to compliment any kitchen decor.One specific feature highlight of the GLD4600N is the 6-Level…

$404.00
 

Fagor LFA-073 IT Built-in Dishwasher

The AIS Fagor Dishwashers regulate consumption and troubleshoot for you. These dishwashers simplify your everyday chores and make the most efficient use of your appliances, allowing you to use water, energy and time according to your needs.

$999.00
 

Fagor LFA-065 SS Stainless Steel 23 in. Built-in Dishwasher

The new AIS Fagor Dishwashers regulate consumption and troubleshoot for you. These dishwashers simplify your everyday chores and make the most efficient use of your appliances, allowing you to use water, energy and time according to your needs.

$899.00
 

Hotpoint HDA3500NCC Built-in Dishwasher

This dishwasher features a 5-level PowerScrub wash system with PowerShower that has 5 wash levels and redesigned wash arms direct water precisely for a quiet and efficient clean. The 100% water filtration with ExtraFine filter helps deliver clean…

$239.00
 

General Electric HDA3540NSA Built-in Dishwasher

This dishwasher features a 5-level PowerScrub wash system with PowerShower that has 5 wash levels and redesigned wash arms direct water precisely for a quiet and efficient clean. The 100% water filtration with ExtraFine filter helps deliver clean…

$269.00
 

DCS DD124-C Built-in Dishwasher

Powerful and efficient. Choose from nine distinct cycles, including four energy-saving Eco Options, for maximum flexibility. Handy door controls and a concealed control panel give you the ease of on-touch programming. Detergent dissolves immediately,…

$849.00

Energy Efficient Clothes Washing Machines – Rub a dub dub three men in a tub

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The beauty here is the bulk of your cost to operate a washing machine consists in heating the water. Since our mythical homeowner is both super insulated and using a solar water heater, we can wash clothes for next to nothing:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=clotheswash.pr_clothes_washers

Residential Clothes Washers

Want to save money and protect the environment? Ask for ENERGY STAR…

An ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washer can save you $550 in operating costs over its lifetime compared to a regular clothes washer. ENERGY STAR qualified washers are also better for the environment because lowering energy and water use means less air pollution from power plants and less water going to waste.

Locate a store nearby that sells ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washers

:}

Here is one of many reviews. IN FACT I am shocked that you have to look for most of the residential stuff we have reviewed so far. You type energy efficient washing machines into google and you get hundreds of sites. I swear there is something wrong with this country sometimes.

http://www.consumersearch.com/www/house_and_home/washing-machine-reviews/

Washing Machines Reviews

 GE WJRE5500GWW

Best top-loading washer.

While some basic top-load washers have plummeted in performance testing when it comes to cleaning ability, the GE WJRE5500GWW gets good scores for washing performance and costs less than a high-efficiency front loader. This model has a 3.5-cubic-foot capacity with a stainless steel tub and the usual wash cycles. It uses rotary dial controls. Also included is an automatic load balancer – a feature that’s starting to disappear on less expensive washing machines. The most common owner complaint is that this washer’s spin cycle isn’t particularly strong, so clothes may need more drying time.

Fisher & Paykel Intuitive Eco IWL16

Most reliable high-efficiency top-loader.

There are now many high-efficiency top loaders on the market — these replace an agitator with some other technology that uses less water and energy. Unfortunately, we read very mixed owner reviews for most of these, including the Maytag Bravos and Whirlpool Cabrio. Owners seem far happier with the Fisher & Paykel Intuitive Eco IWL16, which uses less energy than a conventional top loader, yet gets clothes as clean or cleaner with less noise. Three spin speeds let you customize how much water is wrung out — the 1,000 rpm speed is great for towels and jeans, meaning they’ll need less drying time. Unlike other high-efficiency washers, you can use regular detergent with the Intuitive Eco.

Frigidaire GLTF2940F

Top budget front-loader.

Front-loading washing machines clean better, are more energy efficient and use less water than conventional top-loading machines. The trouble is that reliability is often iffy. The Frigidaire GLTF2940F is one of the cheapest front loading washers available, yet its scores for efficiency and cleaning ability are as good as some models that cost twice as much. The Frigidaire is a bargain if you want a front-loading washer, but we did read some complaints about water building up in the rubber door seal causing odors — a very common complaint with most front loaders. Reports on reliability are mixed, but in line with what we’ve seen for most washers.

LG SteamWasher WM2688HNMA

Best front-loading washing machine.

Unlike most other machines, the LG SteamWasher offers an important extra: two steam cycles. One steam cycle prepares clothes for ironing, while the other sanitizes them for a longer period, which reduces lingering odors. The LG has a large-capacity 4-cubic-foot stainless steel washtub, and its faster 1,320-rpm spin cycle gets more water out of laundry (which means less drying time). This machine also features a delay cycle that can put laundry on hold up to 19 hours, and the wash cycle can be monitored remotely via computer. While expensive, the LG TROMM gets better owner-written reviews than other front-loading washing machines.

July 8, 2008 Update We found the most thorough, credible and up-to-date washing machine reviews at Consumer Reports. Its website also has a moderated discussion board that allows subscribers to ask questions and exchange information about washing machines. Its methodical testing in several categories helps buyers to choose the best washers currently on the market. Although we also found excellent hands-on evaluations and extensive testing of washers at Australia’s Choice and Britain’s Which? magazines, most of the models in these two publications are not available in the U.S., so these articles are of less help to American consumers.Good Housekeeping magazine used to be a good place to find reviews on major appliances, but we didn’t find any recently written information on washing machines. However, we have found an increasingly large number of owner-written reviews for washing machines, which are extremely helpful when it comes to gauging noise level and reliability. Sears.com, BestBuy.com and HomeDepot.com are all great places to check for user reviews on a given washing machine.In January 2007, the U.S. Department of Energy phased in tougher efficiency requirements for washing machines. New washers are required to use 21% less energy. While that seems great in concept, the end result has been dirtier laundry. Consumer Reports has the most balanced information on the effects of these requirements. For many conventional top-loading washing machines, models must now use less water and lower wash temperatures, which can affect performance. Although we found some heated debate on this topic, Consumer Reports is the only publication that backs up its opinions with product testing.

 In Consumer Reports’ testing, the least expensive type of washing machine – traditional top-loaders with agitators – had a hard time cleaning clothes as well under the new efficiency mandates. Front-loading washers and some alternative top-loaders use a different technology than a traditional agitator, and are not as impacted by the new laws. To get the same level of cleanliness, users may need to do more pre-treating of stains.

We found many websites that rate washing machines based purely on efficiency, but with no performance testing. These include the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy (ACEEE), EnergyStar.gov and the Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE). All of these websites have good explanations of technology and related articles despite the lack of performance testing

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AND many more useful sites:

www.saveenergy.about.com/od/energyefficientappliances/p/eneffwashingmac.htm

www.staber.com

www.ecobusinesslinks.com/appliances_energy_efficient.htm

www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/consumer/alerts/alt070.shtm 

www.veggierevolution.blogspot.com/2008/07/energy–efficient-and-water-saving.htm

www.ehow.com/how_2140467_buy-energy–efficient–washing–machine.html

www.thedailygreen.com/green-homes/latest/green-remodeling-laundry-rooms-460212

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Energy Efficient Clothes Dryer – Well there is one but it makes too much sense

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Ok so you probably know what I am going to say so don’t rush me. Here is the conventional wisdom:

 http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/appliances/dryers.html

Unlike most other types of appliances, clothes dryers don’t vary much in the amount of energy used from model to model. That’s why clothes dryers are not required to display EnergyGuide labels. They’re also not listed in the ENERGY STAR®’s database.

But that doesn’t mean that the amount of energy used by clothes dryers isn’t important. A dryer is typically the second-biggest electricity-using appliance after the refrigerator, costing about $85 to operate annually.

Over its expected lifetime of 18 years, the average clothes dryer will cost you approximately $1,530 to operate.

Right now, all dryers on the market work the same – they tumble clothes through heated air to remove moisture. Engineers are working to develop dryers that use microwaves to dry clothes, but they’re not yet being sold. (One problem still to be overcome is metal rivets and metal zippers, which don’t microwave well.)

Electric vs Gas

All dryers use a small electric motor to turn a large drum that tumbles the clothes placed inside it. All of them have an electric fan, which distributes heated air. There are however, two ways to create the heat needed to efficiently dry clothes – using either gas or electricity.

Electric dryers use heating coils to supply heat. Most electric dryers operate on 240-volt current, twice the strength of ordinary household current. If your laundry area is not equipped with a 240-volt outlet, you must have one installed.

Gas dryers use a gas burner to create heat, but otherwise they operate the same as an electric dryer. Your laundry room must have a gas hookup, with proper connections and safe venting of the gas’s exhaust, in addition to an electrical outlet.

The connections you have in your laundry room will probably dictate which style you use. If you have both gas and 240-volt connections, consider that gas dryers cost more to begin with – approximately $50 more than the comparable electric model. But in most areas gas dryers will cost less to run over their lifetime. Generally speaking, the cost of electricity needed to dry a typical load of laundry is 30 to 40 cents, compared to 15 to 20 cents if you use gas.

The energy efficiency of a clothes dryer is measured by a term called the energy factor. It’s a rating somewhat similar to miles per gallon for a car – but in this case, the measure is pounds of clothing per kilowatt-hour of electricity. The minimum energy factor for a standard capacity electric dryer is 3.01. For gas dryers, the minimum energy factor is 2.67, and, yes, the rating for gas dryers is provided in kilowatt-hours, even though the primary source of fuel is natural gas.

 

Buying Smart

Consider these tips if you’re looking to buy an efficient clothes dryer:

  • Check for the highest energy factor number when comparing different models. Remember that there are two costs to an appliance – the initial purchase price, and the cost of operating that appliance over the many years you own it.
  • Know whether your laundry room has gas or electricity hookups. If you need to add a gas line and a vent to operate a gas dryer, you may spend more on adding the hookup than you’ll save with the cheaper operating cost of gas.
  • Look for a clothes dryer with a moisture sensor that automatically shuts off the machine when your clothes are dry. Not only does this save energy; it reduces wear and tear on clothes caused by over-drying.

The best dryers have moisture sensors in the drum for sensing dryness, while most only estimate dryness by sensing the temperature of the exhaust air. Compared with timed drying, you can save about 10 percent with a temperature sensing control, and 15 percent with a moisture sensing control.

  • Look for a dryer with a cycle that includes a cool-down period, sometimes known as a “perma-press” cycle. In the last few minutes of the cycle, cool air, rather than heated air, is blown through the tumbling clothes to complete the drying process.

It’s Your Money

Here are ways to cut the amount of energy and money you spend drying clothes:

  • Locate your dryer in a heated space. Putting it in a cold or damp basement or an unheated garage will make the dryer work harder and less efficiently.
  • Make sure your dryer is vented properly. If you vent the exhaust outside, use the straightest and shortest metal duct available. Flexible vinyl duct isn’t recommended because it restricts the airflow, can be crushed, and may not withstand high temperatures from the dryer.
  • Check the outside dryer exhaust vent periodically. If it doesn’t close tightly, replace it with one that does to keep the outside air from leaking in. This will reduce heating and cooling bills.
  • Clean the lint filter in the dryer after every load to improve air circulation. Regularly clean the lint from vent hoods.
  • Dry only full loads, as small loads are less economical; but do not overload the dryer.
  • When drying, separate your clothes and dry similar types of clothes together. Lightweight synthetics, for example, dry much more quickly than bath towels and natural fiber clothes.
  • Dry two or more loads in a row, taking advantage of the dryer’s retained heat.
  • Use the cool-down cycle (perma-press cycle) to allow the clothes to finish drying with the residual heat in the dryer.

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But the real solution is to not to use a machine to dry your clothes:

www.blog.solarhaven.org

clothsline.jpg

If it rains?:

 www.amazon.com

indoors.jpg

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Energy Efficient Refrigerators – Cool because they are cool

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OK so my energy efficient 27 inch Samsong is all set up. I looked in the paper and CSI is not new so we can go back the appliances now. As I said in the last post a truely efficient Refrigerator would have the freezer compartment on the floor, followed by the food compartment and then the compresser. It would be up against an outside wall, and there would be a system for venting the heat outside during the cooling season. I may even be able to find a drawing of one…I think it was in the original Whole Earth Catelog….whatever. Here’s what the experts say:

Buying a New Refrigerator  To find the most efficient refrigerators , download a qualifying product list from the ENERGY STAR Web site (link to excel file in the upper-right). Sort by “Configuration,” “Volume,” and “Percent Better” to see which refrigerators meet our recommendations (below). For a quick search by manufacturer, here’s a direct link to the list in html.

When buying a new refrigerator, consider the following:

1. Low Annual Energy Use
ACEEE recommends that you consider models that use at least 20% less electricity than that required by federal law. Models that are 20%, 25% and 30% better than the federal standard may qualify for rebates — check with your local utility.

2. Choose top-mounted freezer configuration over side-by-side
Side-by-side refrigerator/freezers use more energy than similarly sized models with the freezer on top, even if they both carry the ENERGY STAR. The government holds the two categories to different standards, allowing side-by-sides to use 10-30% more energy. Icemakers and through-the-door ice also add to energy consumption. To compare energy performance across different refrigerator types, look for the measured “kWh/year” either on the ENERGY STAR list above, or on the yellow EnergyGuide label posted on the refrigerator (and available on-line through many manufacturers and retailers websites).

3. Size Matters
Refrigerators under 25 cubic feet should meet the needs of most households. The models over 25 cubic feet use significantly more energy. If you are thinking about purchasing such a large unit, you may want to reconsider. A smaller unit may well meet your household’s needs.

4. Minimize multiple refrigerators
That said, if you need more refrigerator space, resist the temptation of moving your old refrigerator to the basement or garage for auxiliary purposes. Instead, have it recycled and think about other options if you need more refrigerator space. Depending on your situation, it is generally much more efficient to operate one big refrigerator rather than two smaller ones. If your big fridge is likely to be empty most of the year, maybe the better option would be to purchase an ENERGY STAR compact fridge. Compact refrigerators less than 7.75 ft3 must be 20% more efficient than the minimum federal standard to qualify for ENERGY STAR. They are listed alongside full-size refrigerators at the ENERGY STAR link above.

5. Recycle your old fridge
Be sure you dispose of your old refrigerator properly. You can usually have the utility or the city pick it up; they might even pay you to throw it out. To learn more, go to our web page on appliance recycling and disposal.
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I you want the website and their spiel:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=refrig.pr_refrigerators

Residential Refrigerators

Commercial Solid Door Refrigerators & Freezers

ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerators require about half as much energy as models manufactured before 1993. ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerators provide energy savings without sacrificing the features you want.

Earning the ENERGY STAR

  • ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerator models use high efficiency compressors, improved insulation, and more precise temperature and defrost mechanisms to improve energy efficiency.
  • ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerator models use at least 20% less energy than required by current federal standards  and 40% less energy than the conventional models sold in 2001.
  • Many ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerator models include automatic ice-maker and through-the-door ice dispensers. Qualified models are also available with top, bottom, and side-by-side freezers.
  • ENERGY STAR qualified freezer models use at least 10% less energy than required by current federal standards. Qualified freezer models are available in three configurations:
    • upright freezers with automatic defrost
    • upright freezers with manual defrost
    • chest freezers with manual defrost only
  • ENERGY STAR compact refrigerators and freezers use at least 20% less energy than required by current federal standards. Compacts are models with volumes less than 7.75 cubic feet.

Remember, saving energy prevents pollution. In most households, the refrigerator is the single biggest energy consuming kitchen appliance. Replacing a refrigerator bought in 1990 with a new ENERGY STAR qualified model would save enough energy to light the average household for nearly four months.

You may also be interested to know that you can reduce the amount of energy your refrigerator or freezer uses, whether with a standard or an ENERGY STAR qualified model:

  • Position your refrigerator away from a heat source such as an oven, a dishwasher, or direct sunlight from a window.
  • To allow air to circulate around the condenser coils, leave a space between the wall or cabinets and the refrigerator or freezer and keep the coils clean.
  • Make sure the door seals are airtight.
  • Keep your refrigerator between 35 and 38 degrees Fahrenheit and your freezer at 0 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Minimize the amount of time the refrigerator door is open.
  • Recycle older or second refrigerators.

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Then there are the Propane Refrigerators:

http://www.oasismontana.com/refrigerator.html

Propane Refrigerator by Servel

one of the oldest and most reliable manufacturers of LP units, are still available without significant lead time, for $1195 plus freight.  The Servel Americana 400 series is their latest technology of fully independent refrigerator/freezers.  The absorption-type cooling system (no freon) is quiet and dependable, with no compressor or other moving parts to wear out.  Choose almond or white for exterior finish with designer beveled edges; 7.5 cu ft (5.6 ‘fridge, 1.9 freezer).  CFC-free.  Outside dimensions:  63.5″ tall; 23″ wide; depth of 26.5″.  Door hinged on right.  Features include all-white interior with adjustable, removable shelves and door bins, plus two vegetable crispers and a battery powered interior light.  All models can be operated on AC electricity if desired (but are not energy efficient used in this fashion, using almost 4000 watts per day).  Fuel consumption averages (at 77° ambient temperature) 1.1 lb of propane daily or 1.5 to 2.4 gallons per week.  Swedish made with famous European craftsmanship, these units will provide many years of use.  American Gas Association approval, of course; one year warranty.  Call for your freight on these units.  Also available as fueled by kerosene for $1550.  The kerosene units do require additional maintenance (as kerosene is a less clean fuel than propane).  There is a maintenance kit suggested for those interested in the kerosene units that costs an additional $149; spare parts included are 12 wicks, wick raiser, flame spreader, wick cleaner, and glass chimney.Click here for a picture and additional information on these great units . 

Full Sized Propane Refrigerators Now Available

The Crystal Cold! (click this link for more data).  Made by the Amish for the Amish, who usually have large families and demand high performance. White, bisque, stainless steel & black colors are available in some models.  Click here for more details.  These units look like a ruggedly-built, conventional refrigerator, available in 12 cu .ft , 15 cu ft, 18 cu ft, and now a whopping 21 cu. ft. model. Runs on natural or LP gas, very gas efficient; one year warranty, with option to extend warranty to three years for $65. For natural gas conversion at the factory, add $50.  Call, write or e-mail us for additional information on these quality NEW units.

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Made by the Amish for the Amish. I love it. Lord there is hope. Then there are the solar people:

Full Sized Propane Refrigerators Now Available

The Crystal Cold! (click this link for more data).  Made by the Amish for the Amish, who usually have large families and demand high performance. White, bisque, stainless steel & black colors are available in some models.  Click here for more details.  These units look like a ruggedly-built, conventional refrigerator, available in 12 cu .ft , 15 cu ft, 18 cu ft, and now a whopping 21 cu. ft. model. Runs on natural or LP gas, very gas efficient; one year warranty, with option to extend warranty to three years for $65. For natural gas conversion at the factory, add $50.  Call, write or e-mail us for additional information on these quality NEW units.

 http://www.partsonsale.com/sundanzer.html

Remote home and cabin owners, are you aware that it takes ten 85 watt solar panels with their associated mounting brackets, wire, charge controller, combiner box, inverter, inverter cables, battery cables, fusing and a fairly large bank of deep cycle batteries to power a conventional 600 watt refrigerator !

fridgefin.jpg

Save on system costs with these Ultra High Efficiency battery-powered solar refrigerators and freezers. These highly efficient units with exceptionally low energy consumption require a smaller photovoltaic (PV) system for your refrigeration needs. these Ultra High Efficiency units feature 4.33″ (110 mm) of polyurethane insulation and coated steel cabinets. The brushless motor compressor operates on 12 or 24 VDC. A patented low-frost system reduces frost build-up for low maintenance.these Ultra High Efficiency chest-style refrigerators and freezers are easy to clean using the drain hole at the bottom of the unit. With thick insulation and a refrigeration system optimized for solar, these Ultra High Efficiency refrigerators and freezers provide outstanding economical and reliable operation. these Ultra High Efficiency cabinets are commercially produced by one of the world’s leading appliance manufacturers.

www.geappliances.com/products/energy/

www.ecomall.com/greenshopping/icebox2.htm

www.sunfrost.com

www.blog.techsoup.org/node/411

www.ecomall.com/greenshopping/icebox2.htmp

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Energy Efficient Televisions – Now that we have covered the basics

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So we have you house super insulated, we have a tankles water heater, and you have turned your refrigerator upside down and moved the coils outside (more on that tomorrow), what do we get next? Most people would say an efficient “something” to cook on but me I gotta have my TV! While I am doing the research on all that other silly stuff I can watch CSI.

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006/05/top_energy_effi.php

Shopping for an energy efficient television set can be difficult. You can scan the manufacturers’ specs, but many don’t provide power information, and the numbers provided rarely include standby power ratings. Depending on what type of set you buy, a television can consume as little as 45 watts or as much as 500 watts, and cost anywhere from $13 to $145 per year to run.

Basically, TVs that use the least amount of electricity are smaller LCD TVs, and the biggest energy consumers are the 50+ inch plasma sets. The most efficient LCD televisions are generally those in the Sharp Aquos line. Last year, CNET tested the energy efficiency of 20 television sets, and the Sharp Aquos LC-20B8U-S 20 inch set was found to be the least power hungry — it costs just $13 a year to run. Rear-projection TVs are also technically energy efficient, but these sets are large and rarely get as bright as the others.

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These people do a bang up job of laying out the cost for 80 different Television sets. All HDTV because in February we all have to switch over.

http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-6475_7-6400401-2.html?tag=nav

The price of energy always seems to be rising, and costs can run high when just about every modern appliance can be seen as a power-hungry mass of circuits, lights, and buttons that sucks down electricity, day and night. We put 104 TVs–old and new–to the test by measuring how much power each uses in a simulation of actual use. Our results, detailed in a chart on the next page, show that it can cost between $29 and $223 a year to watch TV, depending primarily on screen size and technology type.

Technology and size matter
There are four basic technologies that TVs use to produce a picture, and technology type has a large influence on power consumption per inch of screen. The traditional cathode-ray tube (CRT) blasts electrons onto chemical phosphors embedded on the inside of the tube, while plasma sets ionize gas to create colors in a million or more tiny pixel cells. SpongeBob or American Idol then show up on the other side of the glass, and both require more electricity to create a brighter image.

Power consumption compared

TVs:
Average plasma: 350 watts
Average rear-projection: 212 watts
Average LCD: 213 watts

Other A/V gear:
PlayStation 3: 197 watts
Xbox360: 187 watts
Average PC: 78 watts
DirecTV HR20 DVR: 33 watts
Wii: 19 watts
Slingbox: 9 watts
Wireless router: 7 watts

On the other hand, flat-panel LCDs and rear-projection microdisplays use a powerful fluorescent backlight or bulb that either punches through an LCD panel with its three color filters or that reflects off of a digital-light-processing chip that has a million miniature mirrors and a spinning color wheel. Either way, they consume the same power, regardless of the brightness of the image. That’s because the primary light source–the backlight or the bulb–is essentially always running at maximum power. Note that many flat LCDs actually have adjustable backlights that you can turn down to consume less power and produce a dimmer image.

Size matters as well, so we divided each set’s power use by its screen area to get a watts-per-square-inch rating. This way, small and large screens can be compared. While there are plenty of exceptions, the average score of each technology type is telling:

  • Microdisplay rear projector: 0.14 watt per square inch
  • LCD: 0.29 watt per square inch
  • Plasma: 0.35 watt per square inch

If power efficiency is all you’re after, the clear choice is rear-projection technology.

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This is a really long very well written article and tests of more than 80 TV’s. Please read it and click on every commercial you see because these folks are the best! One more quote because it makes an important point. Many electronics consume power whether they are on or off. The worst is the chargers because people leave them plugged in and they draw power constantly. Then we will reveal the winner of the cheapest TV to operate contest.

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Other power factors
It may surprise you to hear that TVs use power even when they’re not turned on. So that the TV is ready to respond to the remote in an instant, all sets use what’s called phantom or standby power. Our tests revealed that standby power consumption varied widely among different TVs. In most cases, it’s just a few watts, but we found several TVs that used more than 10 watts in standby. In any case, it adds up.

Few people have just a TV anymore, and all sorts of ancillary devices contribute to your yearly energy costs as well. Think of all that’s plugged into your set, from a DVD player, an A/V receiver, and a gaming console to a satellite receiver, a digital recorder, and even a Wi-Fi transmitter. They all need power. It may not sound like much, but a DirecTV DVR can use about 33 watts, while a Slingbox draws about 9 watts–and these are devices that are typically always on. All told, these boxes can use more power than the TV itself, especially when it comes to gaming. The Xbox 360 pulls down an impressive 187 watts, but is outdone by the power-hungry PlayStation 3, which requires 197 watts of juice

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AND THE WINNERS ARE:

Envision A27W221
For absolute cheapest

And:

Samsung LN-R3228W

 For Quality

www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=find_a_product.showProductGroup&pgw_code=TV

www.associatedcontent.com/article/187183/tips_for_choosing_the_most_energy_efficient.html

www.usnews.com/blogs/beyond-the-barrel/2008/1/17/seeking-an-energy–efficient–tv-yes-its-confusing.html

www.yosemite.epa.gov/…/b0789fb70f8ff03285257029006e3880/dd87fab13244d90285257274006cb78a!OpenDocument

http://familycorruptioninthebigeasy.blogspot.com/2008/01/looking-for-energy-efficient-tv.html

www.dispatch.com/…/business/stories/2008/06/18/green_tv_0618.ART_ART_06-18-08_C8_26AH7KN.html?sid=101

www.tech.yahoo.com/blog/raskin/6816

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Solar Water Heaters – Why not it’s free

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Not the system the Sun. There are so many Solar Water Heaters available now that it is embarressing. Anyone who owns their own home and doesn’t install one is an Energy Hog. Tankless water heater owners are given a pass.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_hot_water

Solar hot water

 Solar Hot Water refers to water heated by solar energy. Solar heating systems are generally composed of solar thermal collectors, a fluid system to move the heat from the collector to its point of usage, and a reservoir or tank for heat storage and subsequent use. The systems may be used to heat water for home or business use, for swimming pools, underfloor heating or as an energy input for space heating and cooling and industrial applications.

In many climates, a solar heating system can provide a very high percentage (50% to 75%) of domestic hot water energy. In many northern European countries, combined hot water and space heating systems (solar combisystems) are used to provide 15 to 25% of home heating energy.

In the southern regions of Africa like Zimbabwe, solar water heaters have been gaining popularity, thanks to the Austrian and other EU funded projects that are promoting more environmentally friendly water heating solutions.

Residential solar thermal installations can be subdivided into two kinds of systems: compact and pumped systems. Both typically include an auxiliary energy source (electric heating element or connection to a gas or fuel oil central heating system) that is activated when the water in the tank falls below a minimum temperature setting such as 50 °C. Hence, hot water is always available. The combination of solar hot water heating and using the back-up heat from a wood stove chimney to heat water[2] can enable a hot water system to work all year round in northern climates without the supplemental heat requirement of a solar hot water system being met with fossil fuels or electricity.

Evacuated tube collector

Evacuated tube collectors are made of a series of modular tubes, mounted in parallel, whose number can be added to or reduced as hot water delivery needs change. This type of collector consists of rows of parallel transparent glass tubes, each of which contains an absorber tube (in place of the absorber plate to which metal tubes are attached in a flat-plate collector). The tubes are covered with a special light-modulating coating. In an evacuated tube collector, sunlight passing through an outer glass tube heats the absorber tube contained within it. The absorber can either consist of copper (glass-metal) or specially-coated glass tubing (glass-glass). The glass-metal evacuated tubes are typically sealed at the manifold end, and the absorber is actually sealed in the vacuum, thus the fact that the absorber and heat pipe are dissimilar metals creates no corrosion problems. The better quality systems use foam insulation in the manifold. low iron glass is used in the higher quality evacuated tubes manufacture.

Lower quality evacuated tube systems use the glass coated absorber. Due to the extreme temperature difference of the glass under stagnation temperatures, the glass sometimes shatters. The glass is a lower quality boron silicate material and the aluminum absorber and copper heat pipe are slid down inside the open top end of the tube. Moisture entering the manifold around the sheet metal casing is eventually absorbed by the glass fibre insulation and then finds its way down into the tubes. This leads to corrosion at the absorber/heat pipe interface area, also freeze ruptures of the tube itself if the tube fills sufficiently with water.

Two types of tube collectors are distinguished by their heat transfer method: the simplest pumps a heat transfer fluid (water or antifreeze) through a U-shaped copper tube placed in each of the glass collector tubes. The second type uses a sealed heat pipe that contains a liquid that vapourises as it is heated. The vapour rises to a heat-transfer bulb that is positioned outside the collector tube in a pipe through which a second heat transfer liquid (the water or antifreeze) is pumped. For both types, the heated liquid then circulates through a heat exchanger and gives off its heat to water that is stored in a storage tank (which itself may be kept warm partially by sunlight). Evacuated tube collectors heat to higher temperatures, with some models providing considerably more solar yield per square metre than flat panels. However, they are more expensive and fragile than flat panels. The high stagnation temperatures can cause antifreeze to break down, so careful consideration must be used if selecting this type of system in temperate climates.

For a given absorber area, evacuated tubes can maintain their efficiency over a wide range of ambient temperatures and heating requirements. The absorber area only occupied about 50% of the collector panel on early designs, however this has changed as the technology has advanced to maximize the absorption area. In extremely hot climates, flat-plate collectors will generally be a more cost-effective solution than evacuated tubes. When employed in arrays of 20 to 30 or more, the efficient but costly evacuated tube collectors have net benefit in winter and also give real advantage in the summer months. They are well suited to extremely cold ambient temperatures and work well in situations of consistently low-light. They are also used in industrial applications, where high water temperatures or steam need to be generated. Properly designed evacuated tubes have a life expectancy of over 25 years which greatly adds to their value.

200px-evacuated_tube_collector.gif

Or you could make your own:

www.motherearthnews.com/Renewable-Energy/1979-09-01/A-Homemade-Solar–Water–Heater.asp

This is what the Chinese buy:

 http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/cninterma/product-detailxoHJaYFbJrhW/China-Solar-Collector-SCS-.html

Or you could Pay Alot for it:

http://solarroofs.com/

There is a lot out there:

 www.firemountainsolar.com/solarhotwater.html

www.honglesolar.com/SolarWaterHeater.htm

www.sunheat.com

http://talensun.com/procuct.asp

www.toolbase.org/Technology-Inventory/Plumbing/solar–water–heaters

www.builditsolar.com/Projects/WaterHeating/water_heating.htm

www.solarpanelsplus.com

www.solarenergy.com

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Geothermal Heat Pumps For Water Heaters And Refrigerators – Well maybe but it is expensive

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If the Geothermal Heat Pump is the best, why not use it throughout the house? It’s true, you could use a Geothermal Heat Pump to refrigerate your food and heat your water. It’s expensive and against many of the principals CES stands for. Why? Well there is a number of reasons. One, you can’t use the same Geothermal Heat Pump to heat and cool your house and heat your water and cool your food. In fact you can’t even use the same Geothermal Heat Pump to heat your water and cool your food. A Geothermal Heat Pump works for conditioning your air in your house because it cycles through the heating and cooling system. That is it is reversible.

Heating water at the same time as cooling your food would require 2 additional Geothermal Heat Pumps and while that would save energy its a huge waste of equipment. At 2,000$ – 3000$ per Heat Pump you would be paying a lot for the privileged of hot water and cool food.

Second the best bet for heating water is either a tankless water heater or better yet a Solar Water Heater system. It is a toss up in Illinois which is better. The Tankless Water Heater is ideal for the cooling season because you get around the energy “war” between heating your water and cooling your house. Where Solar Water Heaters heat water efficiently they generally heat lots more water and need super insulation to avoid that energy “war”.

Using a 2000-3000$ device to cool your food? It would last virtually for ever so its life-cycle cost would be great. Still it seems somewhat futuristic. Most Refrigerators are build completely wrong anyway. The freezer should be at the bottom, the food compartment on top of that and the Compressor on top of that. After all cold falls and heat rises doesn’t it?

http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=12840

Heat Pump Water Heaters

Most homeowners who have heat pumps use them to heat and cool their homes. But a heat pump also can be used to heat water—either as stand-alone water heating system, or as combination water heating and space conditioning system.

How They Work

Heat pump water heaters use electricity to move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly. Therefore, they can be two to three times more energy efficient than conventional electric resistance water heaters. To move the heat, heat pumps work like a refrigerator in reverse.

While a refrigerator pulls heat from inside a box and dumps it into the surrounding room, a stand-alone air-source heat pump water heater pulls heat from the surrounding air and dumps it—at a higher temperature—into a tank to heat water. You can purchase a stand-alone heat pump water heating system as an integrated unit with a built-in water storage tank and back-up resistance heating elements. You can also retrofit a heat pump to work with an existing conventional storage water heater. They require installation in locations that remain in the 40º–90ºF (4.4º–32.2ºC) range year-round and provide at least 1,000 cubic feet (28.3 cubic meters) of air space around the water heater. Cool exhaust air can be exhausted to the room or outdoors. Install them in a space with excess heat, such as a furnace room. Heat pump water heaters will not operate efficiently in a cold space. They tend to cool the spaces they are in. You can also install an air-source heat pump system that combines heating, cooling, and water heating. These combination systems pull their heat indoors from the outdoor air in the winter and from the indoor air in the summer. Because they remove heat from the air, any type of air-source heat pump system works more efficiently in a warm climate.

Homeowners primarily install geothermal heat pumps—which draw heat from the ground during the winter and from the indoor air during the summer—for heating and cooling their homes. For water heating, you can add a desuperheater to a geothermal heat pump system. A desuperheater is a small, auxiliary heat exchanger that uses superheated gases from the heat pump’s compressor to heat water. This hot water then circulates through a pipe to the home’s storage water heater tank.

Desuperheaters are also available for demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters. In the summer, the desuperheater uses the excess heat that would otherwise be expelled to the ground. Therefore, when the geothermal heat pump runs frequently during the summer, it can heat all of your water. During the fall, winter, and spring—when the desuperheater isn’t producing as much excess heat—you’ll need to rely more on your storage or demand water heater to heat the water. Some manufacturers also offer triple-function geothermal heat pump systems, which provide heating, cooling, and hot water. They use a separate heat exchanger to meet all of a household’s hot water needs.

http://www.greenerbuilding.org/buying_advice.php?cid=104

Heat Pump Water Heater

Heat pump water heaters (HPWH) work using the same premise as any heat pump. Heat pumps transfer heat from one zone to another and most achieve efficiency factors (EF) of 2 to 3. Heat pumps gain their efficiency by using electricity to move heat versus using the electricity to create it.

Heat pumps move temperature from a warm location such as an outside space in a warm climate, near a furnace, or from the basement, to the water storage tank. The heat pump uses a heat exchanger located within the tank to transfer the warmth to the water. Because the HPWH extracts heat from the air it delivers about twice the heat as a conventional electric water heater.

The byproduct of this water heating is air cooling. In some applications the units can act as both a water heater and air conditioner. Depending on needs such as condition of current water heater, HPWHs are available as independent units, or as add-ons to existing systems. Initial purchase and maintenance can make these an expensive choice especially when inexpensive natural gas is an option. In appropriate applications, the HPWHs save energy in almost every situation.

The downside to greater efficiency is a more complicated installation. HPWHs should be installed by professionals who can assist with choosing a water heating system that matches your needs. The investment costs can be recouped quickly when hot water use and electricity costs are high. HPWHs are most efficient in warm climates or when installed in a heated location, such as a furnace room. Because the efficiency and capacity of the HPWH decrease as air temperatures drop, cold ambient temperature locations should be avoided.

Maintenance of HPWHs is higher than with other options, sometimes requiring routine heat exchanger coil cleaning as often as every 3 months. Heat pumps are slower than electric water heaters by about 25%. While this may not be an issue often, if the demand for hot water exceeds the supply the backup heaters come on, reducing efficiency of the entire unit.

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This is the one they like if you want to see a living breathing specimen:

http://www.aers.com/etech_residential_water_heating.html

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You probably have a heat pump in your home. Refrigerators ARE Heat Pumps. But they are never asked to heat any thing. In other words they are not dual cycle. The problem with refrigerators is that they ventilate in the house and during the cooling season this is simply a bad idea. Net cycle because they reduce the heating load during the heating season. A house with 3 heat pumps and a superinsulated water heater and a super insulated refrigerator such differences would be minute.

http://www.saburchill.com/physics/chapters/0126.html

Thermal Physics

Heat Pumps

If a heat engine is operated in reverse, as described above, it has the effect of transferring internal energy from a body at a low temperature to one at a higher temperature. It is then called a “heat pump” (or a refrigerator depending on what it is used for).

 

 

pump.jpg

A heat pump or fridge can be represented by a similar diagram to the one used for the heat engine but with the arrows representing energy flows reversed.

 

 

An explanation of the operation of a fridge requires consideration of cooling caused by evaporation.

The temperature of a body is a measure of the average kinetic energy of its particles. During evaporation, the molecules which are more likely to “escape” from liquid and become part of the vapour are the ones which have higher than average kinetic energy. Therefore, if you cause the rate of evaporation of a liquid to increase, without supplying energy, the temperature of the remaining liquid will decrease.

The rate of evaporation of a liquid can be increased by

 

 

i) decreasing the pressure acting on its surface
ii) blowing air over the surface (clothes dry more quickly on a windy day)
iii) increasing the surface area of the liquid (evaporation only occurs at the surface)
iv) increasing the temperature

The diagram below shows the main parts of a refrigerator.

 

pump2.jpg 

In the tubes around the freezer compartment, the pressure is decreased by the pump (there is a small section of the tube which is narrower than the rest). Rapid evaporation takes place here and latent heat of vaporisation is taken in.

In the tubes outside the refrigerator, the vapour is compressed and then it condenses. Latent heat is given out as it condenses.

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